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Here's several classic greywater system design mistakes to avoid:

One drywell kit is included with every greywater disposal kit for $650 - additional drywell kits are $169 delivered.   Our drywell kits are 24 inches in diameter, 28.75 inches in height (with lid), and weigh 23 pounds apiece.   Knockouts are provided around the drywell for nine - 4 inch pipes and fifty four - 1.25 inch diameter knockouts for leaching holes.   When used as a leaching pit (drainage "leach" field), initial surge volume is 48.6 gallons with a daily capacity relative to how much gravel is placed under and around it (about 200 gallons per day, every day, in most soils with 1 foot of gravel under and around it).   You do not need more drywells for more water disposal capacity (one or two in a pit is usually plenty) - what you need for larger water disposal situations is a bigger hole with more gravel in it.

Heavy-duty, recycled, high density polyethylene HDPE plastic leach pit kits come shipped in a handy carrying case ready for on-site assembly. Drywell kits are 24 inches in diameter, 28.75 inches in height (24" without lid), and weigh 23 pounds apiece. Knockouts are provided for nine - 4 inch pipes and fifty four - 1.25 inch diameter leaching holes. Initial surge is 50 gallons, but the capacity is only limited by the size of the leaching pit (dig a larger hole and add more gravel). Three interlocking side panels, heavy duty lid, FREE sanitary tee fitting for bringing liquid into the lid, FREE coupler, riser, and surface vent grate, FREE geotextile filter fabric to keep soil from entering the gravel layer around your drywell and FREE SHIPPING via UPS Ground to the lower 48 states.

Drywell kit is pictured at right ...

2 foot diameter, 2 foot tall, with a 4-3/4 inch lid

Shown below is a sample installation with two drywells in series - bringing sewage in through the lid.   Top loading (with vent) ensures maximum surge capacity for the drywell.   Please note that venting your leaching pit (or any septic field) is most highly recommended.   Oxygen keeps the drainage pit dry and the soil around it healthier.   Freezing is rarely, if ever, a problem with running sewage water underground, but you can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be.   We provide all of the fittings pictured with your kit (san tee, riser, coupler, vent and geotextile fabric).   The geotextile fabric is included for installation above the gravel layer.   It keeps backfill soil from clogging the gravel and is crucial to extending the life of your leach pit.

The beauty of our greywater disposal system is that you can very easily convert it to a greywater recycling system later.   A row of privacy bushes or a small orchard is typically the best reuse of greywater - a fruit tree tree can easily uptake 15 plus gallons per day and the pipes do not need to be pressurized.   Please take this link to a detail page with typical greywater leach field sketches   With the following system, drywells are acting as "emergency overflow" leaching pits with the majority of the water able to be delivered direct to orchard.   This type of system works especially well on sloped lots you wish to reforest.

This "self-cleaning" filter is the heart of our passive greywater systems.   Keep in mind that besides the parts, our toll-free installation assistance is included in every graywater system we sell!   That's what makes our kits such a great value.   Unlike the large catalog companies we've experimented, installed, and serviced many system configurations over the years.   We have the practical experience necessary to ensure your success and pack just about everything you will need with your kit >>>.

Link to greywater filter detail page

Graywater irrigation systems can be very simple and non-electric when the top of your planterbed (leach field) is below the elevation of the home's effluent pipe.   When used as the first settling tank of your greywater system, this filter basin acts as a grease trap.   Typically, a drop tee is used to introduce incoming greywater subsurface (see sketch above) and not a direct discharge inlet pipe (as shown to the left).   The direct discharge pictured here is only recommended when installing the basin in-line after an inital settling/surge tank.

Your 41 inch tall by 26 inch diameter filter basin includes an unauthorized entry resistant lid, greywater filter, and every gasket and pipe fitting you'll need to put it all together.   Please note that 12 inch and 36 inch riser extensions are available if your filter basin needs to be buried deeper.

This 10 piece hole saw kit is included for free with our passive greywater kits. Every installation tends to be unique; this free hole saw kit allows you to put the inlet, outlet, and inspection holes right where you need them. A nice touch that we continue to include for no extra charge with every greywater kit. Trying to cut a round hole by hand or with a jigsaw can be a challenge, at best.

INSTALLATION of the DRYWELL

Knock out or cut out the 1 inch ports to allow water to drain out. Hit the "X" marks on the inside of each panel with a small hammer. Rest the outside of the drywell atop a 2 by 4 laid close to the hole being removed. As you might guess, this is a great time to have a bored 10 year old handy. Knock out 4 inch port in top lid and side panels as needed for pipe connections.

If you are NOT planning to fill under and around with gravel, wrap landscaping fabric around the drywell (included) to prevent soil from entering the drain holes and secure in place with duct tape. When backfilling with gravel, install landscaping fabric above gravel layer (as per sketches at top of page).

Backfill evenly around the drywell with soil or gravel, raising the level in stages to avoid tipping the unit. The drywell may be surrounded with stone if desired to increase leaching capacity, but do not fill the inside of drywell with stone. It is typical to use 1-1/2 inch diameter crushed gravel for a leaching pit, but anything down to about 3/4 inch will work. Do not use small "pea" gravel and avoid smooth river rock whenever possible.

Bury the drywell at least eight inches below the surface grade, if not a foot or two. The more soil coverage atop the lid, the easier it will be to regrow vegetation. A common approach in poorly percolating soils is to bring the gravel around drywell all the way up to finish grade. Exposed gravel will allow the leaching pit to get rid of water through evaporation in additional to percolation. These drawings do not highlight like the installation diagrams at top of page, but always vent your leach pit for best performance and soil health.

When a drywell is buried where vehicles may occasionally pass over/near the leach pit, you should always consult a local soil engineer.   Rock fill, poorly percolating soil, ground water and/or saturation of perimeter with runoff will dictate certain engineering approaches and limit your choices.   The minimal approach taken by engineers is to require a reinforced concrete base/pad under the drywell bottom panel and a 4 inch diameter Sch40 riser pipe from base to bottom of lid.   In worst case scenarios, you might see a reinforced concrete pad atop the unit(s) too.   The interior mounted pipe allows vertical loading (see image above), but understand that vehicular traffic atop drywell lid should be avoided and is not warranted by manufacturer.

When stacking drywells, order the set of three side panels and assemble with the full kit of three panels and lid.   Stabilize the stacked drywells with several half inch screws at each level and then lower the entire stack into the hole at one time.   Backfill evenly to avoid tipping the stacked drywells.