This bears repeating: strawbales are an option worth considering for INSULATION outside the home (stacking them around the exterior under eaves), but using strawbales for a permanent interior wall building material is not a bright idea in a passive solar home. Designs lacking thermal mass are simply not able to store passive solar energy properly.

Left click here for a BIGGER file with BETTER images: interior photos
we are adding some short movies and larger, higher definition images soon!

Autoclaved aerated concrete ("AAC") blocks are a recent marketing development and nothing but ploy to capture more of your money with a unique product.
Autoclaved aerated concrete, according to their website, consists of "mostly air".   Please don't fall for their marketing ploys.   You can not "have your cake and eat it too".   Building materials are either high thermal mass or not.   They either have insulating qualties or they have energy storage qualities.   Autoclaved aerated concrete pretends to offer both to lure the passive solar design market.   Autoclaved aerated concrete blocks were developed to cut shipping costs, allowing for a block that could be delivered at minimal cost around the country.   If you want a truly sustainable design passive solar home - choose high thermal mass conventional concrete, not flimsy lightweight products.   Your local block yard or concrete batch plant will appreciate keeping your money locally and you will have a much, much stronger home.   Autoclaved aerated concrete can not be mostly air and still be as strong as solid concrete and have the same thermal mass - it just doesn't happen.

HTMs are not all that different from conventional homes, so please don't expect to find extreme cost savings in materials. You save on the labor, which is 2/3 of the cost of any home.
Earthships (using recycled tires for your walls) are obviously less expensive in terms of materials, but any savings is quickly overshadowed by the increased labor.   That happy glow from recycling tires will be of little consolation to your sore back after ramming hundreds of wheelbarrows full of dirt into those endless radials.   Trust me, there is a wealth of information to be found in Michael Reynolds' Earthship series of books, but think carefully before you decide to build with alternative materials.  Selling an "alternative" home can be very difficult:  the type of family that would like to own a house made out of strawbales or car tires is also the type that would rather build it themselves.   You need to hit a happy medium between environmental idealism and common sense when choosing your home's building materials.   Building with concrete block or poured-in-place walls is tried and true commercial style construction, which saves money and produces a much more "conventional" structure.

Face the facts: resale values are lower and mortgages are a lot more difficult to get for homes made out of tires, bales of straw, cob, rammed earth or papercrete blocks.
A home and the land it sits on is a HUGE investment; recycled tires, papercrete, cob, rammed earth and strawbales can be a VERY tough sell!   The economic reality is that despite what we all wish, the $30 a square foot home is not worth much on the open market, so it's of little consequence that it was cheap to build.   HTM home designs typically entail concrete block walls.   This choice of material ensures a much better resale value by being a lot more "conventional" in the eyes of your banker and those pesky real estate agents.   Just how much an HTM costs to build is an elusive question.   The number of variables is staggering - kind of like asking how much does a car cost without knowing the make or model.   As a general note though, if you do most of the work yourself, $50 a square foot, or less, is certainly possible.

Embodied energy in the building materials is a growing philosophical concern for environmentalists worried about the impact of a particular design.
While it is true that poured-in-place concrete and concrete block walls may have higher initial embodied energy (energy it takes to mine, manufacture and ship the product) than other "alternative" building materials, you really must look at the big picture.   Embodied energy is a moot point when the finished house is more sustainable, has an indoor garden (not possible in a high-R design), is more comfortable and has a much healthier interior air environment because it is being vented more aggressively   Energy savings over the extremely long lifetime of a poured concrete or concrete block home more than make up for the initial embodied energy of the material being used.   We share a deep sense of environmental concern, but we don't let idealism and fuzzy figures cloud our judgment - step back a moment and examine all the factors with an unbiased eye.   Embodied energy statistics (like any statistic) should be taken with a grain of salt.   Take the long view and we trust you will agree with us.

The most do-it-yourself friendly and economically sensible, wall building method we've found is concrete block dry-stacking, wherein you surface bond concrete masonary units ("CMU"s) for the home's walls.
Dry-stack (left click the link below for tech specs) is a high thermal mass construction technique wherein CMU walls are assembled without mortar (only the first course is bedded in grout to establish plumb and level for the wall).   These CMU blocks need not be of any special design; they don't interlock.   Please beware of clever marketing schemes selling trick dry stack blocks - common concrete block works just as good.   You simply stack the concrete blocks in a running bond pattern and then parge both sides with a single layer of fiber reinforced, surface bonding cement ("structural stucco").   Applied 1/8" thick (minimum) to both sides, surface bonding cements have strengths that are superior to conventionally mortared block walls and they look a lot better too (no grout lines)!   Understand that grout between blocks is NOT an adhesive - grout is simply a leveling agent and actually weakens a wall (notice where a block wall cracks - the grout line).   Grout between mortarted blocks is a weakness - it is only done to keep a wall plumb and level.   This easy to apply, water resistant, one coat structural stucco (surface bonding cement) comes in tintable white or gray, making a finish coat or painting optional.   It may help to think of surface bonding cement as a "fiberglass" reinforced coating - very strong and very waterproof.   The surface bonding cement's polyester fibers interlock to form a VERY strong wall.   Once your concrete block walls have been bonded, one hollow vertical core every four feet (or less, if specified by the engineer) is filled with ready-mix concrete and a #5 rebar for an exceptionally strong heat storage mass at a low cost.   Empty cores are normally filled with concrete, sand or other material for additional thermal mass - there is no good reason to leave cores empty or filled with insulation.   Please note that poured-in-place concrete walls are just as effective (when waterproofed properly), but your average person does not have the materials and skills needed to form up and pour concrete walls.

Dry stack block detail page: link to surface bonding specs and photos

Worried about mold, earthquakes, tornadoes, hurricanes, fire and termites? When you compare dry stack block to other materials, remember the three little pigs!
Dry stack block walls are worlds stronger and much more durable than any stick framed or strawbale home.   In addition to being fireproof, surface bonded walls are waterproof and they resist air and sound penetration better than other types of construction materials.   Plus, the walls are absolutely termite and rot proof!   One coat application of surface bonding cement provides both structural strength and textured finish with integral color capability that can even eliminate the need for painting.   The economic strengths of dry laid block begin with the inherent properties of concrete block and the fact that block can be dry stacked 70% faster than laid in mortar.   Surface bonded cement block walls have greater flexural and racking strengths than conventional mortar construction, too!

HTM design counsultation packages are perfect for homeowner/builders because we include toll-free telephone, fax, and e-mail advice and links to help you before, during, and after construction.
The most economical route to owning a new home is to build it yourself.   Since HTM passive solar home designs require no prior drywall, bricklaying, framing or siding skills, the average person can build their own walls without the assistance of these expensive subcontractors.   Throughout design and construction, we are here to answer questions and offer creative advice.   Please note that solid, poured in place, concrete or mortared block walls are just as effective, but the cost of hiring contractors to build the forms, pour the walls, and then return to strip the forms can be prohibitively expensive for most people.

We are well versed in helping clients build in a very economical way, specializing in a "low-tech" approach which is both simple and effective.
We have experimented with a great many techniques and know all too well what doesn't work.   This knowledge is what sets us apart from the competition.   We are builders, not just architects with a theoretical "dream" and we're not some large, impersonal, mail order company either.   We are family owned and operated, taking great pride in offering a level of service our competitors simply cannot deliver.   We are here for you after the sale.

Here's a few sample layouts: link to basic HTM floorplans

HTMs need to be custom adapted to function in your climate and on your property.
In colder locations, your HTM is orientated as close to true (not magnetic) south as possible (within 15 degrees is best) and the exterior walls are heavily insulated to allow retention of heat over the longer periods of winter conditions.   This exterior insulation typically entails attaching layers of extruded polystyrene (EPS - blue/pink board) styrofoam insulation and then covering it with stucco, stone, or siding.   In extreme climates (very hot or cold), the building can be earth-bermed to provide additional insulation and protection from the elements.   Our HTM passive solar home design can and will work anywhere!   The same basic principles that apply to storage of heat apply to storage of cooling capability.   Walk into one of the old Federal court buildings made out of soild granite blocks in the middle of a hot summer and you will know what we are talking about.   Modern details like perimeter "wing" insulation keep your home's entire heat-sink dry and at a consistent temperature.

The true beauty of an HTM passive solar home lies in its simplicity of form working with function: what a concept!
Please note that an HTM is not always bermed: buried into a hillside (walkout basement).   Underground house designs are always an option with an HTM, but most people opt for the conventional, above ground appearance.   The same choice applies to sloped glass, but bear in mind that vertical glass does not supply nearly as much solar gain.   TheNaturalHome.com's HTM design model is basically "adobe" architecture that has withstood the test of time because it works, simply and naturally.   We suggest substituting concrete block for adobe since block is more readily available throughout the country and are better suited to local building codes and engineering needs.   Once the first row is set in mortar on the footers, the walls take shape pretty fast since the rest of the blocks are dry-stacked (no mortar between the blocks).   Surface bonding cement is trowled onto both sides of the concrete block walls, tooled into various stucco textures, and often left as the one-coat, finished product on the inside (no drywall here).   Exterior walls are insulated and given a cosmetic coat of stucco, siding, or whatever treatment is necessary to allow an HTM to blend into its neighborhood.   If you want to use conventional mortared block walls or poured-in-place concrete, go right ahead, we're with you all the way.   It's just that dry stack is worlds easier for the unskilled homeowner-builder.   You don't have to have any experience with laying block to dry stack!

You can build any type of roof you wish, even truss, but logs have a very softening effect on rectangular structures.
A lot of attention has been given to our choice of log roof beams ("purlins").   Please note that you certianly can use dimensional lumber (beams) in your roof details if you wish.   The main advantages to log purlins are availability (raw logs are more often used for firewood) and cost (look into untreated telephone poles - ones which did not meet stringent specs are a good buy).   What you notice most with purlins after the home is finished is the way round logs greatly soften the angular, linear nature of an otherwise rectangular design.

HTM roof construction: link to log purlin and roof deck photos

Greenhouse style, sloped glazing brings in the solar heat and plenty of free natural light with it. Ask any gardener, you just can't grow crops behind vertical glass!
Sloped glass gives an HTM sustainable design its unconventional look, but vertical glass simply does not produce as much solar heat gain.   It is one of the main function or fashion decisions you will be faced with.   Take plenty of time to carefully consider this all-important sustainable home heating decision.   Losing heat through the glass at night is of little concern when thermal mass is so BIG and your windows have been sloped to allow at least 30% more energy in.   And there is absolutely no need to use movable or expensive "specialty" glass either!   After all, the whole concept of Low-E glass is to keep energy out!   Let all the solar energy in you can - the excess gain will allow you to ventilate more agressively in the winter.   Fresh air in the middle of a long winter is a luxury without measure for your health and general welfare.

Too much south facing glass is a design problem for earthships, strawbale, and log homes because of their relatively low thermal masses.
Soil compacted into a tire (earthships) simply does not absorb and release heat fast enough to avoid uncomfortable temperature swings, and be assured that those "solar absorbent" floor tiles in your strawbale or log home won't help much when the structure itself fails to store any heat!   HTM passive solar home designs allow you to have LOTS of south facing glass for growing crops without the harmful temperature swings common in other types of construction.   Concrete walls are extremely fast to absorb excess solar gain and release it later, when needed to moderate indoor temperatures.   The enormous thermal mass under and around the home eventually "charges" over the course of the summer, allowing this stored energy to keep the home comfortable all winter.   Insulated drapes are a common addition in cold, cloudy winter climates, but keep in mind that even on a cloudy day your home gets some solar gain, otherwise it would be dark.   In hot climates, you cool your thermal mass by installing sun shade materials along the exposed glass front.   For details on creating a cooler micro-climate outside the home with a shaded trellis, take this link: shade cloth chapter.   Please note that wing shades (pictured below) are not as common as a standard overhead trellis with shade netting.

Detail page on sun screen: link to shade cloth materials & custom shade tarps

Solar technology has dreamed up numerous "ingenious" methods to capture, store, and later release excess passive solar heat gain. Be careful - don't believe everything you read - some ideas can be toxic.
Concrete blocks laid on their sides under a floor (the Solar Slab by James Kachadorian), or rock beds with fans to blow out the stored heat are classic textbook examples of what does NOT work in the real world.   These concepts look great on paper and do manage to store some heat, but they all have one major drawback: the inability to access the heat storage areas for periodic cleaning.   Some pretty scary "things" tend to grow very well in such a nice warm, dark, moist environment.   A classic example of implementing another extremely poor ventilation concept is Annualized Geo-Solar ("AGS") by Don Stephens.   The AGS design is basically an HTM, but Annualized Geo-Solar suggests using the space between ceiling and roof to vent solar heated air around the home, which is just asking for problems.   Even if off-gassing from glues and building materials (fiberglass insulation, plywood and OSB board) was not an issue, the chance of mold and mildew is.   This air transfer cavity in the roof of an AGS design is impossible to clean.   Dirt, dust and insects will eventually build up, breeding mold and mildew, creating a toxic indoor air problem.   The only circumstances under which we would feel comfortable suggesting annualized geo solar would be when the entire AGS loop is closed (sealed against air leakage) and made from a non-organic material (galvanized metal or plastic pipe).   The AGS system would still not be able to be cleaned, but at least contaminated air leakage into home would be minimalized.   Yet another example of an exceedingly poor idea is Subterranean Heating and Cooling System - SHCS.   Subterranean Heating and Cooling System ("SHCS") is NOT an innovative approach to optimized solar greenhouse heating and cooling design.   Using this approach for phase-change heat exchange is a sure fire recipe for indoor air poisoning.   You can not clean four inch diameter corrugated, perforated, filter sock covered flexible polyethylene drainage tubing (commonly called ADS - Advanced Drainage System or "PE").   Mold, mildew and mice will eventually find a nice warm, moist home in corrugated pipe and you have no chance of removal.   Ventilation air being pulled through these Subterranean Heating and Cooling System ("SHCS") pipes will be tainted at best, toxic at worst.   We would never suggest SHCS for a greenhouse, let alone a residential home.

We do, however, advocate the use of Earthtubes. Earthtubing is nothing more than thin wall PVC plastic "sewer" pipes encircling your foundation: cooling or preheating fresh air as it is naturally drafted inside the home.
Earthtubing functions as the "path of least resistance": earthtubes allow outside ventilation air to naturally temper as it flows along a series of plastic "sewer" pipes, warming or cooling as the season may require.   In homes that must have a dust\allergen-free environment, fresh ventilation air can be filtered and the sealed, smooth wall pipes periodically cleaned.   Try that trick with a rock storage bed or concrete block Solar Slab channels under a concrete floor!   Conventional homes are typically High R value and "airtight", so all of the heating and cooling effect is stored within the air temperature (convection).   If you let the air escape, you lose all your comfort.   High thermal mass building materials allow the heating and cooling effect to be stored within the home's walls and floor (radiant).   This allows you to vent the inside air of an HTM without "losing" all your heating or air conditioning comfort.   Fresh air is vital to the health of a home - that bears repeating ... fresh air equals healthy home.   That's why you can never have too much solar gain - you can always vent more in the winter and shade in the summer.

Please note that earthtube technology is not geothermal heat pumping. Earthtubes are sustainable, non-electric, passive heating and cooling systems. Unlike geothermal heat pumps, earthtubes do not involve any exotic machinery or special type of pipe that we are trying to sell you. The technique is decidedly low-tech: cleaning, for instance, simply involves pulling a bleach or disinfectant solution soaked towel through the plastic pipes. Compared to rectangular metal heating and cooling ductwork, earthtubes are very easy to keep clean. Knowing how much and which type of earthtubing pipe to use and how to install, space, maintain, and filter them is an excellent example of the practical knowledge we supply with every HTM consultation package. left click here for earthtube detail page

The peace of mind you'll have in your own truly sustainable design is the hardest dividend to put a price tag on, but try.
HTMs are economically sensible, easily constructed, ecologically sensitive, healthy, natural homes which are not only energy efficient, but actually energy independent* (capable of storing heat and regulating the indoor environment without any expensive repair-prone, mechanical systems).   We are not merely talking about storing heat for a few days here, this is seasonal passive solar heat storage with no "moving parts".   HTMs are more than functional though, they "breathe" through their earthtubes and have a fresh, "living" presence which is a world apart from stuffy, confining, conventional housing.   Solar radiant heat is a very gentle source of warmth that is infinitely more comfortable than forced air.   The HTM pictured throughout this site, was tested in a 10,000+ heating degree day climate: degree-day explanation link.   The passive ability of an HTM to stay comfortably warm in the winter and cool in the summer, is easily managed in any climate.   Please note that extremes of climate or personal taste may necessitate climate control systems.   For example: 1) de-humidifiers are highly recommended for hot, humid areas and 2) Iceland, with 6 month long, dark winters is not the perfect spot for a passive solar home.   Insulated drapes are a common addition in cold, cloudy winter climates, but keep in mind that even on a cloudy day your home gets some solar gain, otherwise it would be dark.   In hot climates, you cool your thermal mass by installing sun shade materials along the exposed glass front (see next detail page).   Creating a cooler micro-climate outside the home with a shaded trellis is the ultimate low-tech passive solar cooling technique.

Tested at 8700 foot elevation in the Colorado Rockies: hot or cold, HTMs perform

Alternative building styles do not have to be "new". We haven't "re-invented the wheel". HTMs are more conventional commercial construction than "alternative".
What we have done though, is create a nice tight little package which solves a lot of sustainable design and basic architectural problems for you and your subcontractors.   One of the main difficulties with "alternative" housing has always been that "alternative" quickly translated into "new".   New to a subcontractor usually means expensive with lots of grumbling about difficult to find materials and unfamiliar construction details.   That's exactly why TheNaturalHome.com's HTM passive solar home consultation is custom applied with a PRACTICAL approach to make your job as general contractor a lot easier.   Residential (stick framing) construction typically entails wood framed walls which are drilled full of holes by the plumber and electrician and then covered with drywall.   Every contractor covers the previous one's mistakes until finally the trim carpenter comes in to make it all look, well, finished.   One of the largest construction savings that an HTM passive solar home affords is the ability to construct aesthetically pleasing, economical, heat storing, dry stack, concrete block walls with a crew of only one or more UNSKILLED laborers.   If you combine these construction savings with the continual energy dividend our passive solar home offers, you'll soon see why TheNaturalHome.com's consultation is such a great value for you AND the environment.

HTM house plans are less expensive to build than a conventional stick framed house because the average person can quickly master dry stack concrete block.
We would never dream of suggesting that someone who has never done any framing or drywalling attempt to build a conventional stick framed home.   These are skills that take lots of practice to become proficient at.   Dry stack concrete block is, however, relatively simple to master.   Once the walls are up, the roof is all that's left.   This is but one reason that an HTM will save you a lot of money versus conventional stick framing, but the real savings comes every month with your power bill and peace of mind.

What you wrap the house in has little or no bearing on function
stone, wood or aluminum siding to stucco: link to exterior wall photos

Technology is constantly evolving, but beware of high-tech answers to low-tech problems. Simple usually costs less, works better, and always lasts longer.
That's why HTMs are typically designed to be as simple and self-sustaining as possible.   Complicated mechanical heating and cooling systems are a burden on more than just your pocketbook.   Artificial temperature control systems directly affect the natural "feel" of a home.   Abundant sunlight and electricity-free, radiant, passive solar heat feels right, is easy to maintain, and allows an HTM to have smaller photovoltaic (PV), wind, and/or hydroelectric systems.   By the way, here is a priceless piece of advice - if you install photovoltaic panels, install them on a rack in the yard NEVER on your roof.   Roofs are made for protecting your house.   Drilling holes in your roof to attach solar panels is a bad idea and never trust a salesman who suggests it.   Plus, who wants to climb up on the roof to remove snow and ice?   With an adjustable rack in the yard, you can track the sun seasonally for more power AND avoid costly roofing repairs down the road.

The most common earth home construction and design error is leaving a home's foundation uninsulated and the surrounding earth not waterproofed.   Wet earth in contact with your foundation will act as a giant heat sink, constantly pulling energy away from the home.   This single design error can be extremely costly in terms of losing heat or cooling potential.   Believe me, there's a lot more to proper foundation design than just installing a French drain.   Shallow footer design (frost-protected shallow foundations), such as this monolithic slab foundation design, are much improved with as little as two feet of perimeter wing insulation.

wing insulation & frostwall details

Interior planterbeds are a central element of our HTM earth home design.
Sloped glass is the only natural way to grow crops in the winter.   We have tomatoes producing inside this HTM twelve months of the year at an 8700 foot elevation in the Rockies!   Indoor planterbeds (heat storage) and the ability to grow crops year-round in extreme climates is the hallmark of our sustainable design.   The 2800 square footer pictured throughout this web site sets high atop the continental divide in Colorado and maintains comfortable year-round growing temperatures.   As a side note, fig trees are excellent plants for interior planterbeds.   They are insect resistant, prune and grow easily, and produce delicious specialty fruit year-round.   Interior planterbeds perform many functions besides being just a great hobby.   The staggering volume of wet earth in these planterbeds holds an amazing amount of heat!   This is the heart of high thermal mass housing: heat storage.   Please note that we have gone to above ground planterbeds (the one in this picture is below grade) to store even more heat in our newest designs.   Above grade planterbeds are much more economical to build and a lot easier to maintain from a kneeling postion or wheel chair.

Detail page on planterbeds: link to passive irrigation system photos

With full floor to ceiling glass, the view is endless.
A key to winter function is allowing passive solar heat gain and natural light to penetrate deep into every room.   The front (south) 'hallway' combines with the planterbed to create a very open, airy feeling throughout an HTM.   While it is certainly possible to box-in an HTM to create smaller rooms, we suggest waiting until you are more familiar with the home.   Rooms can easily be divided after the home has been completed - additional interior partition walls would be non-bearing (framed, drapes, accordion walls and movable partitions are options).   The main thing to keep in mind is that the sustainable, energy independent nature of your passive solar heating and cooling "system" is affected by cutting the home up into smaller boxed-in rooms.   You are in effect turning the HTM design into a conventional home.   True, it will still function worlds better than any stick framed home, but it may need some supplimental energy to heat these interior rooms that passive solar energy has been prevented from entering directly.

Living area and kitchen functions are often shared by the front entry room.
The general lack of doorways and windows on three sides makes a basic HTM extremely adaptable to underground home and fully bermed layouts.   You are, of course, free to design your HTM completely above ground with doors and windows on all four exterior walls, but by concentrating all of the glass and entry/exits along the south wall, you simplify and speed construction.   This pragmatic approach saves a lot of time and plenty of money on building costs, while maximizing thermal mass and making it easier to create a more air tight, sustainable structure.

Middle stalls/bays are left open for use as dining room/office/recreation areas.
Wall treatments are not limited, but most clients do tend to avoid drywall.   Stucco, latex paint and natural plasters are the most common finish coats for surface bonding cement (dry stack construction).   Wood walls, like those shown here, add add a lot of warmth, balancing an otherwise linear, stone room.   Presenting all four design elements (Earth, Air, Fire & Water) in every area is optimal.   Floor treatments are the most varied of all building materials, and anything goes in an HTM, but form needs to follow function for the most sustainable design.   For instance, dark tile along the front hallway would absorb more solar gain and do it faster, but lighter colors (as shown) reflect more ambient light back into the home.   In most rooms, the immense amount of thermal mass allows you to choose carpet or hardwood floors with little drop in overall performance.

Bathrooms are the most under-utilized area in any home design.
Utility rooms, storage areas and bathrooms are typically arranged along the rear (north) wall with clerestory windows supplying plenty of natural light.   Larger bathrooms invite reflection and the Water element makes for a great meditation area (with or without a little waterfall).   When placed in the flow across back of home, bathrooms can serve multiple duties with a little extra space: laundry sorting, reading area, yoga mat, time out, massage chair, nursery/changing station or potted plant counter.   This room can become an active area, versus passive where the bathroom is more of a dead-end closet.

Master suites are typically an end room for the sake of privacy.
Concrete block is used for noise control walls along interstates ... it will work even better in your bedroom.   As with any design question, the answer is always yes, it is possible, but at what functional cost.   You need to define what you expect in order to get what you want out of anything.   Bedroom preferences are the most varied of any room: total dark and quiet, early riser with the sun in your eyes at dawn, late sleeper who likes fresh air, or perhaps someone who wanders to the bathroom too much in the dark?   Water tubes, glass block walls, drapes and moveable partitions can be installed for additional privacy and a door can always be added to the hallway.   These are all personal taste issues that are hashed out during the design stage.   We work closely with our clients to personalize floorplans and site layouts - they must agree with your lifestyle and family needs.

TheNaturalHome.com's years of sustainable design and earth home construction experience combines with the personal knowledge gained from living in HTMs, to offer you the finest in customer service.
We advertise prices on a great many sustainable design home systems throughout this site, all others are individually conceived, custom designed, and shipped directly from the manufacturer direct to your job site.   We have made a great many industry contacts over the years.   Save yourself A LOT of time and money by letting us do the research, make the calls, check the quality, and secure you the best price on a great many sustainable design products.   This personal shopper service is part of every consultation package.

For instance, cistern tanks are a common addition to sustainable home designs, but beware. Conventional architects and designers know little, or nothing, about sustainable earth home style design.
We have avoided posting information on cisterns in the past, but intend to devote a chapter someday soon.   Without proper care, they can be unhealthy.   If you install a cistern, be sure to use "virgin" white poly tanks, not black HDPE and always install a riser to the surface for cleaning access.   Black tanks will emit a foul platic smell & odd flavor to the water and concrete is always suspect with molds and algae.   White virgin poly tanks keep water fresh much better than any other material.   Fiberglass is relatively brittle and we never suggest concrete for household cistern water - would you drink out of a concrete cup and never wash it?   Always aerate your tanks or they will go "sour".   Do not use cistern water for drinking or cooking, even with filtration and UV, unless you have a very aggressive aeration system installed on that tank.   Consider installing two separate cisterns, if not more.   Two inches of rain on a square foot of roof is one gallon of water.   Size your storage for need and availability.   For instance, with a roof at about 1600 square feet x 2 is 3200 gallons per month of possible catchment water with a four inch average rainfall per month (check to see what your area yields).   We would suggest installing at least three 1200 gallon tanks for this client (1200 gallons is a common tank size) with a family of two adults.   One cistern tank for potable water (aerated and filtered), one cistern tank for household washing water and one cistern tank for planterbed watering and backup to household tank, in case of drought.   Keep in mind that average usage is 50 gallons per person per day with conservation.   Average usage would see those cistern tanks being emptied every month with a family of two adults.

Interior water (and heat) storage with fiberglass tanks is a stylish option. Solarium designs with overhead glass would benefit from a "wall" of tubes across the middle of the sunroom.   Central placement spreads the radiant energy evenly, but if your room has a solid ceiling and vertical glass, tubes are placed closer to the windows.   With an unbroken line of tubes, you can create a very effective water filled Trombe wall design. The analogy of a 'battery' automatically charging, decharging and recharging on free solar energy day after day best illustrates heat storage tubes: low tech Trombe wall energy battery.   Being in direct sunlight is always best, but solar storage tubes perform a subtle sunroom cooling in the shade, too. left click here for heat storage detail page

Initial Consultation $95*

Questions?  Concerns?  Please order an initial consultation so we can discuss your personal project and/or passive solar technology in general.

Consultation includes an hour long video (DVD & VHS) walks you through the sustainable design, HTM™ passive solar earthhome featured in every image of this website. While not a "How-To" video, the second half does include very detailed Infiltrator chamber leach field system installation and SunMar waterless composting toilet footage.   And a CD that contains our entire website, so you won't have to go back on-line to access detail pages.   PLUS, found only in this packet: sketch plans for a 12' by 16' power shed; sample orchard greywater recycling system blueprints; AND four full-size blueprint page samples of typical high thermal mass design with surface bonded block construction!

44 page HTM™ and septic system design guidebook
Sample greywater system and HTM blueprints
36 page Natural Home Building Source™ catalog
Surface bonding cement installation guides
36 page Clivus Multrum® planning manual
Infiltrator chamber leach field systems CD
24 page Sun-Mar® composting toilet catalog
Shade cloth project guide with sample swatches
Assorted product brochures as available

In-House Consultation & HTM Tour $495*

High thermal mass homes are best experienced firsthand, that's why
we offer a personal seminar and private sustainable home tour.

To help you decide about HTMs and the services TheNaturalHome.com offers, we'll spend an afternoon giving your family a personal tour, showing photos of the typical construction sequence, answering your questions, pointing out the various building details possible, and showing you examples of the different materials & tools used.   Carefree indoor planterbeds create a very unique, open, airy, inviting feel - it's a healthy, natural atmosphere that only living with plants can generate.   Denver International Airport is a 90 mile, straight shot on Interstate I-70 and there is plenty to see and do while you're here: Vail, Breckenridge, Keystone, Arapahoe Basin, Loveland, and Copper Mountain ski/golf resorts are all within a half hour's drive of Silverthorne, Colorado.   Please note that $495* in-house consultations ("office hours") are by appointment only and typically scheduled on Saturdays after ten o'clock.   Left click here to email about possible open dates: natural@colorado.net

Flat-Fee Consultation & Plan Red-Lining Services*

Whether you’re building your own home or working with a general
contractor, our on-going consultation package is right for you.

For a one-time flat-fee, we’ll work closely with you to develop a set of custom HTM floorplans for your project while consulting on all aspects of construction.   Please note that our consultation package does not include custom blueprinting, engineering, or load calculations (these services are best found locally).   What we do supply is three sets of sample HTM blueprints which you’ll red-line and/or have re-drawn to fit your personal & local regulatory needs and then follow-up with a full range of personal consultation: site selection, greywater & septic systems, foundation & excavation suggestions, building material choices, home systems integration, and basic construction techniques.

Invest in our sustainable housing hands-on experience to help prevent costly design and construction errors.   Passive solar, sustainable home designs have a great many details which are not common to conventional construction.   We'll provide details common to surface bonded block construction, do a plan review of your blueprints, and provide on-going consultation for septic systems, dry-stack surface bonding, passive solar heating & cooling, tile techniques, glazing details, proper insulation, greywater irrigation, interior planterbeds, shade fabric strategies, composting toilets, and more!

Building a home is the greatest investment of time and money most of us will ever make.   Should there be any questions along the way (and there will be plenty), we're here for you at 800-563-9720 and by e-mail: natural@colorado.net.   We’ll respond with a sketch and/or a written answer, usually within 24 hours.   If we don’t know the answer, we’ll find a few and get back with you.   Please note that office hours and site visits to physically aid in the construction are available, but not included.   We look forward to being of any assistance.

Knitted shade cloth in assorted colors (6 foot width only)

Shading fabric is a must for any greenhouse or passive solar home.  During the summer months, shade cloth screens out solar energy thus reducing solar heat gain and home cooling expenses.

These higher quality, residential grade, knitted outdoor shade fabrics are UV stabilized to resist fading and they'll never mold or mildew.  Cheaper, non-knitted, woven fabrics are used in agricultural applications where longevity, appearance, and sag resistance are not as highly valued.  TheNaturalHome.com sells only the finest desert tested, knitted shading fabric with strong, durable lockstitching that resists tearing, fraying, stretching, and sagging.  Both edges are factory hemmed to provide solid anchor points.

Commercial grade comes in two colors and is not as densely knitted (approximately 60% shade factor) letting more sun pass through, making it ideal for plant shade screens and temperature regulation in a passive solar home.  Premium grade comes in five colors, has a higher shading factor (approximately 75% depending upon the installation) and a much denser knit, making it better suited for privacy fences, windbreaks, outdoor play areas, and pet shelters.  Our knitted shading fabric holds its shape better than cheaper woven fabrics, plus they are easier to cut and install: seam sewing is typically not necessary because this shade cloth will not ravel if securely anchored.  Every order includes a free project brochure with plans for a greenhouse, a privacy fence, a child's playhouse, a patio cover, and roll-up shade curtains.  Please drop us a line if you would like swatches of the different shade cloth and colors.

Shade cloth samples, installations, & fasteners: link to detail page

Commercial grade shade cloth is available only in black and spring green (see link above).  It has a shading factor of approximately 60% depending upon the installation.  Available in six foot wide rolls only, our commercial grade knitted shade cloth is cut to order for $2 dollars per lineal foot (postpaid).

Premium grade shade cloth is available in black and spring green, plus lighter shades of smoke blue, jade green, and saddle tan (see link above).  Its much denser knit has a shading factor of approximately 75% depending upon the installation.  Available in six foot wide rolls only, our premium grade knitted shade cloth is cut to order for $2.50 dollars per lineal foot (postpaid).

Wood fasteners (60 per bag) are $14 postpaid & locking clips (36 per bag) are $14 postpaid

Wood fasteners  (60 per bag $14 postpaid) have eight barbed points on their 1/2 inch by 2 inch galvanized surface.  They are very effective at anchoring edges without tearing the shading fabric.  Just fold a half inch hem and hammer the wood fastener in place.
Locking clips  (36 per bag $14 postpaid) are UV stabilized plastic anchors designed for tying guy wires off or wrapping the shading fabric onto a cable or fence line.  These handy clips are folded over an edge of the shade cloth using one fastener per foot for maximum stability.  They even have a hole for driving a screw or nail through.

Colored shadecloth comes in 150 lineal foot rolls (6 foot wide only) HUGE savings on full rolls of shadecloth!!! $250 for a full roll of premium grade and $200 for commercial grade $50 for a box of 250 locking clips when ordered with a full roll Please drop us an e-mail for a personal quote on larger orders

Black only, knitted shade cloth with custom alterations and wider sizes available FREE SHIPPING ON ALL ORDERS

Our six foot wide rolls of shade cloth are easy to install on any 2, 3, or 6 foot on-center framework.  If your installation calls for larger panels or a specific shade factor, we now offer the following 'commercial' quality, UV and heat resistant, polyethylene, knitted shade cloth option.  It carries a one year manufacturer's warranty on material defects.

Shown below, 30% shade factor, knitted shade cloth is installed as an awning to block excess solar heat gain.  This installation is bordered on all 4 sides with 1/4 inch diameter, coated aircraft cable.  Shade cloth is folded over this cable and secured with locking clips.  Turnbuckles are typically used to put tension on the perimeter cable and allow it to be removed seasonally.  Please note the line of shade as it extends to within a foot of the windows' bottom.

• black (only) knitted shade fabric in 6, 8, 10, 12, 20, 26, & 32 foot widths (custom widths available below)
• your choice of six shade factors: 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, & 90%  knits to meet your needs
• the price varies with shade factor: 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26 & 28 cents per square foot, respectively
• for example, a 15 foot long by 20 foot wide piece in 50% shade factor would be:
  15 x 20 is 300 sq ft x 20 cents is $60.00 ($15 handling fee for less than 300 sq ft)

If you need a unique width, we can hem two panels together or cut one down to your specifications.  Let us make you a custom sized shade cloth with reinforced edges and metal grommets!  Please note that this service is only available with our black, commercial quality fabric.

• 30 cents per foot   -  reinforcing tape can be sewn along the edges to resist damage
• 25 cents per grommet  -  large #4 brass installed 12 inches on center
• 20 cents per foot   -  slitting to make a smaller panel (reinforcing tape is recommended)
• $15 handling fee     -  applies to customized panels under 300 square feet in size

fiberglass heat storage tubes

Our fiberglass solar heat storage tubes can be filled with water to create light diffusing columns that are capable of storing LOTS of BTU's.  Placed next to each other in a row, they make great room dividers and privacy screens too!

Sloped, south facing, greenhouse style glass has long been known to admit more natural light than vertical windows, especially in the cold winter months when the sun is lower on the horizon.   The "catch 22" has always been that too much solar energy passes through, instead of reflecting off the glass, causing a wide temperature swing problem.   The best answer to this "problem" is to add storage mass, not pass up all that free passive solar heat and lose that precious natural sunshine.   The water in these sturdy fiberglass tubes can be dyed to increase heat absorption efficiency, match the decor, and provide extra privacy.   Only bronze color is available at the moment, though.   A vial with enough dye for a 12 inch by 8 foot tall tube is $15.00 with free shipping and handling.   If you are interested only in economy, try using rusty old fifty gallon drums, but if you want the most aesthetically pleasing method we've ever found to store water in a home design, it's our solar storage tubes!   Take this image link to a solar heat storage tube specification detail page:

Here's some additional heat storage tube info: link to heat storage tube specs

translucent; passive solar storage tubes diffuse direct sunlight

lightweight; empty eight foot tubes weigh less than thirty pounds apiece

self-supporting; installation simply involves needing a flat surface

corrosion-free; strong, durable, fiberglass construction throughout

reliable; no moving parts to break down and need to be repaired

UV resistant; the factory UV coating can be reapplied if needed

decorator colors are available to easily dye the water in the tube

columns are easily cut with tinsnips to adjust height

12 inch diameter tubes    (11 3/4", 12 1/8", 12 1/2", 12 7/8")
4' tall (23.5 gallons) is $129 dollars / 8' tall (47 gallons) is $209 dollars

18 inch diameter tubes    (17 1/4", 17 5/8", 18" and 18 3/8")
5' tall (66 gallons) is $199 dollars / 10' tall (132 gallons) is $249 dollars

These prices include a friction-fit cap to seal the top of each tube, but do not include freight charges.  Tubes ship in nesting sets of four separate diameters, as noted above, to help save on shipping fees.  Please note that the shorter tubes can be shipped UPS, but larger 8' and 10' tubes must be shipped commercial carrier and minimum freight charges will likely exceed $100 (4 tubes will cost nearly the same as 12 tubes to ship).

+/- $1389 with shipping   +/- $1699 with shipping

Americana 400 Specifications
Model	RGE 400A	RGE 400W	RK 400A	RK 400W
Exterior color	Almond	White	Almond	White
Fuel	LP gas	LP gas	Kerosene	Kerosene
Electrical	120V AC 60 Hz/325W	120V AC 60 Hz/325W	120V AC 60 Hz/325W	120V AC 60 Hz/325W
Dimensions
Height	63-1/2"	63-1/2"	70-1/2"	70-1/2"
Width	23"	23"	23-3/8"	23-3/8"
Depth	26-1/2"	26-1/2"	27-3/16"	27-3/16"
Weight	167.4 lbs.	167.4 lbs.	189 lbs.	189 lbs.
Door hang	Right	Right	Right	Right
Tank volume	N/A	N/A	2.5 US gal.	2.5 US gal.
Energy use in 24 hrs., avg.*
Electricity	3.9 kwh	3.9 kwh	3.9 kwh	3.9 kwh
Fuel	1.1 lb.	1.1 lb.	.24 gal.	.24 gal.

* Average consumption in 24 hours at 77°F annual ambient temperature
according to ISO standards. Actual performance may vary.

Do-It-Yourself Septic Systems

The wastewater your home produces is referred to as effluent and consists of blackwater (toilet waste) and greywater (kitchen, shower, sink, and laundry waste).  Effluent flows directly from your house into a "watertight", underground, two compartment septic tank where solid waste settles into a sludge layer on the bottom and fats float to the top.  Between these two scum layers is a zone of clarified liquid effluent which is internally piped to the second compartment of the septic tank for additional settling.  As effluent fills the first compartment, clarified liquids are forced to leave the second compartment and flow out to the leach field.  The typical leach field is a series of trenches where effluent is "purified" as it slowly percolates through the soil.

You don't need to hire an engineer to design your septic system in most areas.  Your local regulatory officials will most likely allow you to submit a site plan and pull your installation permits as the "homeowner-builder".  Save money by designing and installing your own sewage disposal system with our help!  What follows is a general guide to Individual Sewage Disposal System ("ISDS") codes throughout the country.  Just note that they will naturally vary from one town to the next.

»   Septic tank sizing is determined by usage.  The object with septic tank sewage treatment is to retain the effluent in the septic tank for at least 30 hours.  This allows solids to settle out and grease time to float to the top.  As a general rule, a 2 bedroom home will require a 1000 gallon septic tank; 3 bedroom --- 1250 gallon septic tank; and 4 bedroom --- 1500 gallon septic tank.  Some towns may require at least a 1250 gallon septic tank for any size home; you need to check.

The image at right is straight out of our county ISDS manual "Calculations of Absorption Area": There are two ways to calculate the minimum absorption area ("leach field") based upon your soil's capacity to absorb liquids with slower percolation rates requiring larger leach fields.  In some areas, your local building department will examine the soil to determine its Long Term Acceptance Rate ("LTAR").  In other areas, a local soil testing firm is hired to perform a percolation test. The typical flow rate ("Q") is 75 gallons per person per day (2 people per bedroom).

»   Some local building departments may require a "soil profile hole".  This is generally an eight foot deep pit which is excavated in the area of the leach field to provide a visual confirmation that there are no problematic soil conditions, groundwater, or bedrock where you intend to put the leach field.

»   Stamped, engineered, septic system plans are typically not necessary unless the percolation test was extreme (greater than 60 minutes per inch or less than 5 minutes per inch), or if there is seasonal groundwater, bedrock, or unsuitable soil less than four feet below the proposed leach field, or if the ground slope is in excess of 30%  in the area of the proposed leach field.

»   When you apply for your building permit, the local health department official will most likely help you design the sewage dispoal system and may even offer to have his office perform a soil test (LTAR) in lieu of a percolation test.  Often you will only need to provide a survey (ILC) of your property (to establish setbacks from buildings, wells, streams, and property lines) and fill out some forms.

»   Your septic system site plan is typically drawn right on top of your property survey showing the septic tank within 5-10 feet from the house, the leach field at least 20 feet from the house and at least 100 feet away from wells, 75 feet away from streams, 25 feet away from dry gulches, and 10 feet away from the property lines.  Or whatever the local regualtory officials require.

»   The home's sewer line drain needs to slope at least 1/4 inch per foot downhill to the inlet side of the septic tank and the outlet pipe needs to flow downhill at least 1/8 inch per foot downhill to the leach field where the septic tank effluent enters a manifold or distribution ("D") box.  Beyond the manifold or D box the leach field trenches (for an Infiltrator chamber system) are excavated perfectly level with each other at a depth of seven inches below the grade of the manifold pipes or D box.

»   If the leach field trenches cannot be level with each other, or if the leach field is uphill from the septic tank, or if the local health regulations require it, a "lift station" is installed in-line after the septic tank.  An electric pump in the lift station forces effluent out to the leach field every time it fills to a certain level ("dosing").  Please note that most ISDS codes allow field size reductions with dosing or automatic siphons.

Please note that if you own a septic tank, HAVE IT PUMPED REGULARLY!!!  Not doing this is a very common mistake that could result in your leach field failing and having to be replaced.  Every third year is average (less often in warmer areas and/or lower usages).  MAKE CERTAIN YOUR TANK HAS AN EFFLUENT SEPTIC FILTER!!!  Septic filters keep larger particles from getting into your leach field and eventually causing it to fail.  REFILL YOUR TANK WITH WATER IMMEDIATELY AFTER HAVING IT PUMPED!!!  Without water on the inside, any type of septic tank just doesn't have the strength to completely resist the weight of the soil around it.  If the tank cracks, it will leak and have to be replaced.

consultation package w/ septic filter kit $475*

Building a new home or renovating an old septic system?   We'll consult on your system for a one time fee of $475 which includes a free septic filter kit ($249 without filter).   Protect your leachfield with a septic filter!   The number one reason that your septic system will fail is because the leach field becomes clogged with sediment.   You can greatly increase the life expectancy of your sewage disposal system by installing a septic filter.

Prevent solids greater than 1/16th of an inch from exiting to your leach field and clogging it up.  Located in the second compartment of your septic tank, this septic filter extends beneath the scum layer, and above the sludge layer withdrawing effluent from the clear zone of the septic tank.  It's external to internal flow and sealed, gas-baffled end cap prevents gas borne solids (tiny particles which float atop gas bubbles) from entering the septic filter. Designed for single family home sewage disposal systems, this high volume septic filter is easy to install on any new (or retrofit on your existing) septic tank.  In addition to the septic filter itself, we also supply all of the fittings and advice you'll need to attach it properly. lifetime replacement warranty complete toll-free consultation $475 - free shipping

link to septic filter details.

TheNaturalHome.com has years of hands-on experience with all sorts of septic tanks and leach fields.  Sign up for one of our consultation and septic filter packages and we'll help with your installation or repair and hopefully head some mistakes off before they happen.  Septic tank effluent filters are a "must-have" system component, so they are a good start towards resolving any other problems you may be having.  Please drop us an e-mail to place your order.

We carry several models of septic filters to suit nearly any tank configuration.  For instance, if you can't access your septic tank to install a filter, we have an in-line septic filter basin that you can splice into the effluent line after the tank!  This kit comes complete with everything you'll need: basin, lid, grommets, and septic filter assembly.

1250 gallon, 2 compartment septic tank kit $1525*

Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!  We're here to help you every step of the way.   Polyethylene is the lightweight answer to just about everything these days, including septic tanks.  Our poly tanks are UPC listed for permit approval ease, they'll will never rust or crack, and are easily moved around by two people (saving money on heavy equipment).   These septic tanks are deeply ribbed for the extra support needed to be buried up to three feet underground.   We'll consult with you on system design and then freight you a custom assembled tank "kit" for a $1395* package price (freight from Denver).

1250 gallon septic tank (typical for a 2-3 bedroom house) with consultation and motor freight delivery to most of the lower 48 states:  $1395 dollars! INCLUDES FREE SEPTIC FILTER two compartment septic tank threaded manhole risers & lids cleanout assembly before the tank all of the pipe fittings and parts

Left click for spec sheet

infiltrator chamber leach field systems from $1695*

The leach field is seldom given the attention it deserves.  Most people don't understand that perforated pipe in a gravel bed is NOT the best choice for a long-lasting, durable septic system.  That is why we sell Infiltrator® chamber leach field systems.  Please note that we do not freight Infiltrator systems outside of Colorado, but will certainly consult on its design when you purchase a septic tank from us.

2-bedroom size Infiltrator® leach field system (up to 24 chambers), end pieces, cleanout, D box, vent ports, fittings and consultation: $1695 dollars!

Theoretically, over ninety percent of the solid waste entering your septic tank is broken down by anaerobic bacteria.  The remaining sludge builds up until you pay to have it pumped out.  If your septic tank is not pumped regularly, solid waste eventually overflows into the leach field where the soil clogs, your field "fails" and has to be replaced; which is a very messy and costly affair.  By the way, don't believe those advertisements you see for "digesters" which are supposed to "save" your leach field and "clean" up your  septic tank.  They are usually just a big waste of time and money. Conventional leach fields use perforated plastic pipes laid in a  twelve inch gravel bed.  It is not a stretch of the imagination to envision those small holes clogging faster than a three foot wide chamber.  That's why TheNaturalHome.com only sells the best!  Infiltator® high-density polyethylene chamber units interlock  to form a continuous drainage area with a much greater storage volume than conventional pipe leach fields.  Installation simply involves digging a series of three foot wide trenches, connecting the Infiltrator chambers, and backfilling with the soil you originally removed.

9 volt Portable Flood Alarm

Flood alarms (high water level alerts) are an integral part of many sustainable design systems.   Sump pumps, cisterns, septic tanks, greasetraps, and greywater filters alike can all benefit from this early warning overfill alarm.   Washing machines, water heaters, pressure tanks, and house plumbing, in general, are subject to leakage, eventually.   This flood alarm will let you know there's a problem with a piercing 110dB wail long before your couch starts to float away.   Left click the image link at right for additional product details: This flood alarm's solid state circuitry is built into a 3 inch wide, 4.25 inch tall, and 1.5 inch deep sensor compartment.   A single 9 volt battery powers the alarm and a battery saver feature keeps batteries fresh longer (24 to 48 months).   Don't take chances with water damage.   Protect yourself with a flood alarm.

$20.00* FREE shipping

Gravel-less drywells for leach pits $159*

Drywells are the perfect answer to your liquid effluent disposal problems.  They also make excellent composting bins and below-grade animal waste vaults for your yard!  These amazingly strong kits can be buried as deep as you need to act as spring boxes, sump chambers, spa and pool drains, gutter downspout chambers, and puddle eliminators.  As with all of our products, we'll work closely with you to design a system that works!

These recycled, high density polyethylene drywells come shipped in a handy carrying case ready for on-site assembly.  They are 24 inches in diameter, 28.75 inches in height, and weigh 23 pounds apiece.  Knockouts are provided for nine - 4 inch pipes and fifty four - 1.25 inch diameter leaching holes.  Their capacity is 48.6 gallons, which gives you plenty of surge protection for almost any composter, but you may need several for a reasonable sized greywater leach field.  Three interlocking side panels and a heavy duty cover are included, plus we throw in FREE fabric wrap to keep backfill from entering the leaching holes you punch out of the drywell. $159 - free shipping 3 side panels for stacking a 2nd unit $109  (postpaid) surface drain for standing yard water $35  (postpaid) bottom panel for sump basin and traffic area use $35 (postpaid) only with purchase of drywell

Greywater recycling systems

Phosphate rich soaps and mild cleaning chemicals are considered pollutants because they accelerate algae growth in the waterways, which in turn leads to oxygen depletion for fish and other marine lifeforms.  The beauty of this "problem" is that these same phosphorous, nitrogen, potassium and protein "pollutants" are excellent sources of nutrition when you reuse greywater for irrigation of fruit trees, landscaping, and gardens (planterbeds).

The wastewater your home produces is called effluent and consists of greywater (kitchen, shower, sink, and laundry waste) and blackwater (toilet and garbage disposal waste).  The key to a workable, code-compliant, gray water irrigtion system is separate plumbing for your blackwater (composting toilet, vault, or septic tank system).  Compared to blackwater, greywater has a very small amount of organic and pathogenic pollutants, so there truly is no need for treatment of graywater in a conventional septic tank.  In fact, your septic tank and field are being overworked by mixing graywater and blackwater.  The longer your septic tank (blackwater) has time to settle, the better.  Please read the beginning of our septic chapter for detailed information on how a conventional settling tank and leach field system works.

Graywater irrigation is still a unique concept in many parts of the world.  If you have to "pull" building permits, the phrase "greywater recycling" is best referred to simply as a "septic system" in your application.  Greywater recycling operates on the same principles as a septic tank system, except that with little or no solid waste, a graywater irrigation system can have a much smaller tank and considerably less leach field area ("planterbed").  Building code regulations vary from town to town, so we have no way of knowing what type of system will pass code in your area until you begin the design phase, but some general rules of thumb for system sizing are:

• settling "septic" tank (if used) should be 15 gallons per bedroom (minimum)


• leach field (planterbed) should be 1 gallon per square foot per day (minimum)


• greywater usage should be estimated at up to 50 gallons per person per day


• Four people should therefore plan for a 200 square foot leach field (planterbed).

Mind you, this is a conservative figure.  You can easily produce less greywater with a little conservation.

Left click for more planterbed photos

A well designed greywater recycling system (graywater irrigation) will automatically water and fertilize your planterbed (graywater leach field) every time you drain the tub or do a load of laundry.  The water's warm and full of nutrients; plants love it!  Please note that we do not condone treating greywater to the extent that it can be used as sprinkler system water for your lawn.  These aerobic and chlorinating treatment systems are too mechanically complicated and initially expensive to ever be considered cost effective.  With the average person producing less than 50 gallons of greywater per day, there are much simpler and cost effective places to direct your graywater, than your lawn.  A single fruit tree, for instance, can easily uptake 15 gallons per day.

Please note that even if you don't have to obtain a building permit for your greywater system now, it doesn't mean a future owner won't be required to.  We highly recommend keeping resale value and future health code enforcement firmly in mind when considering graywater irrigation.  Here's six general design mistakes to avoid and not just because they are "code":

• using unlabeled, unsealable, unvented containers as the filter basin


• leaving PVC vent pipes and drain lines exposed (toxic smoke when burning)


• allowing any greywater ("treated" or otherwise) to drain directly atop the bare ground


• storing the "treated" greywater in a holding tank, cistern, catchment, lagoon, or pond of any design


• not venting the plumbing fixtures, filter basin, and planterbed piping directly to the exterior, above roof line


• not draining the base of your interior planterbed to an exterior leach field or drywell.  Draining the base allows oxygen to enter for proper venting and functions as an emergency overflow

Non-electric greywater recycling kits are $695*

Our passive graywater irrigation kit (greywater "septic" system) makes watering your greenhouse or planterbeds a breeze for only $695* with FREE shipping.   Graywater from your home is piped directly to this durable, buried vault where solid debris settles to the bottom and grease floats to the top.   As greywater flows in, clarified graywater irrigation flows out to the diverter valve where it splits evenly into your two separate leach field pipes.

Graywater irrigation systems can be very simple and non-electric when the top of your planterbed (leach field) is below the elevation of the home's effluent pipe.  When used as the first settling tank of your greywater system, this basin acts as a grease trap.  Typically, a drop tee is used to introduce incoming greywater subsurface (see detail page link below) and not a direct discharge inlet pipe (as shown below).   The direct discharge pictured below is only recommended when installing the basin in-line after an inital settling/surge tank whcih may be required by your local health department.   If your planterbed or leach field is uphill from the settling tank location, we do have a 110 volt AC electric pump option that is discussed at the end of this detail page (left click on picture below):

This clever little kit solves all your irrigation problems without any "moving parts".   All of the fittings required to install your greywater filter/settling tank are included*: inlet and outlet rubber grommets, neoprene gasket, tamper resistant fasteners, "self-cleaning" filter cartridge, handle extension kit, and a free hole saw kit to cut the inlet and outlet holes.   *The rest of the parts are common 4 inch sewer pipe fittings which are readily available from your local plumbing supply store.

Every graywater system we sell is a complete kit that includes all of the parts you'll need* PLUS a toll-free assistance!
$695 - FREE shipping

Non-electric greywater DISPOSAL kits are $625*

Please note that you don't have to reuse your greywater.   If you simply want to dispose of the greywater, we can sell you a passive (gravity drainage) greywater package for $625*.   This kit includes everything shown above (filter basin and all of the plumbing fittings) except that instead of a diverter valve to your planterbed/leach field, this $625* kit simply has a drywell to dispose of the effluent.  Please left click on this hot link for a detail page: graywater disposal system option).

This "self-cleaning" filter is the heart of our passive greywater recylcing system.  Keep in mind that besides the parts, TheNaturalHome.com's toll-free installation assistance is included in every graywater system we sell!  That's what makes our kits such a great value.  Unlike the large catalog companies we've experimented, installed, and serviced many system configurations over the years.  We have the practical experience necessary to ensure your success. Link to greywater filter detail page

Sun-Mar® self-contained composting toilet kits

Sun-Mar® Excel was the first self-contained composting toilet in the world to be tested and certified by the National Sanitation Foundation ("NSF").  First introduced over 20 years ago, the Excel's three-chamber, Bio-drum™ continues to be the finest design on the market.  Unlike the big catalog companies, we sell no other self-contained composter for a very good reason: we service what we sell, and the Sun-Mar Excel is the most dependable, easiest to maintain, and is the only self-contained composter large enough to conveniently handle full-time residential usage.  Our offices have had two Excel composters in continuous usage for over six years now.  We know these units "inside and out".  Technical assistance after the sale is our specialty.

ANSI/NSF STANDARD 41 certification is typically all that's required for residential installations.  Consult your local health department for applicable Individual Sewage Disposal System ("ISDS") regulations in your area.

The Sun-Mar® Excel at 32 inches deep and 22 inches wide, is a natural for adding a toilet to your garage, workshop, or cabin that lacks the basement needed for a Clivus Multrum® central composting toilet system (see below).  These durable units are great for job sites too!  Why pay rent for a portapotty chemical toilet when you can own something so much better?  The Excel toilet sits directly on your restroom floor, so installation simply involves cutting a hole in the roof for the vent, gluing a few pieces of pipe together, connecting the emergency overflow hose to a drywell or a small holding tank, and then plugging the unit into an electrical outlet.  This time-tested, high capacity toilet has a very convenient tray for removing finished compost material.  Keep this feature in mind when you're looking at other manufacturers' composters.

This photo link is loaded with Sun-Mar installation tips.

Excel AC ($1529 - FREE shipping and handling)
This package (shown installed above, left) comes complete with vent pipe and cap, roof flashing, and a 110 volt AC fan built right into its sleek little fiberglass chassis.  A low power usage carbon fiber heating mat (no moving parts to fail) is part of the base and is outfitted with a thermostat to help speed composting and liquid evaporation.  These NSF standard #41 certified units were tested for six continuous months at their maximum residential capacity of four adults.  They passed with flying colors and therefore meet all applicable health codes for installation in almost any residential situation.  An optional speed control switch is available for $40 dollars.

Excel AC/DC ($1609 - FREE shipping and handling)
This kit is exactly the same as the AC model, but has the very handy addition of a 4" vent stack and an in-line 12 volt DC fan.  With the AC/DC Sun-Mar Excel composter, you have the flexibility to connect different vents depending upon your installation.  For instance, you can shut off the AC power when you leave for an extended period of time and use the 4 inch vent stack (non-electric draft or 12 volt DC fan assisted) instead.

Excel Non-Electric ($1389 - FREE shipping and handling)
This non-electric Excel kit (shown installed above, right) is simply a stripped Excel model (it lacks all of the electrical features found on the other Excel composters).  Please note the 4 inch vent pipe rising straight out the top (they wallpapered the pipe to hide it from view in this photo).  A single, four-inch vent pipe and cap with roof flashing is included; the optional 12 volt DC in-line fan is $50 dollars.

We have installed and serviced a lot of self-contained composting toilets over the years, but we only sell Sun-Mar®.  Our high regard is backed up by Sun-Mar's 25 year fiberglass body warranty and 3 years on the composter's parts.  We'll match anyone's price, plus, give you the kind of service after the sale the others don't even pretend to offer!  If you're from out-of-state (Colorado) or installing the Sun-Mar yourself, we supply all the toll-free advice you'll need to get the job done right the first time!  In-state, we offer hand delivered, experienced installation and on-site service for composting toilet systems.  E-mail us for a personal consultation or a quote on other Sun-Mar models.

We feature the Excel, but all models of Sun-Mar composters are available from TheNaturalHome.com.  Take this link straight to Sun-Mar's website and then e-mail us for a personal consultation and/or quote.  If you would like additional composting toilet product information, we offer a half hour Sun-Mar video, 24 page Sun-Mar color catalog, and a 32 page Clivus Multrum installation and operation guide for $5.00 to cover shipping and production costs.

Clivus® central composting toilet systems

Clivus Multrum® composting toilets aren't just for trailheads anymore.  With over 50 years experience solving waste-treatment problems, they are the world's leading authority on composting toilets.  Please give us a call at 1-800-563-9720 to start planning your composting toilet system now.

Composting "waterless" toilets not only offer an economical and ecological solution for public restroom sites, but also for homes and businesses which suffer from lack of water, difficult topography, low percolation rate, high groundwater, inadequate lot size, or an environmental conscience.  Clivus naturally composts toilet "waste" in a polyethylene unit located on the floor below the restroom, where you install the waterless toilet fixture(s).  Composting toilets offer an odorless, waterless alternative to installing a conventional septic tank, smelly vault privy, or worse yet, a portable chemical toilet.  We sell, install, and service these low-maintenance, NSF certified composting toilet units throughout the Rocky Mountain region.

The Clivus Multrum composting toilet system is simple, that's why it continues to work the best.

Aerobic bacteria converts all of the solid toilet matter into humus, while the urine slowly percolates through the compost (reaching the cleanout compartment as a stabilized, concentrated liquid fertilizer).  Seasonal removal of humus from composting toilets may be necessary, but overall they are fairly maintenance-free (compared to a self-contained composter).  Anaerobic bacteria (the type found in septic tanks) have an offensive methane odor, whereas aerobic bacteria (the type found in composting toilets) do not stink.  What noticeable composting odor exists, is prevented from escaping the waterless toilet fixture by an in-line fan which creates a powerful draft that aerates the compost before exiting via the 4" vent stack.  The waterless toilet fixture(s) is installed directly above the Clivus composter body.  A hole is cut between the floor joists so the toilet chute can extend down to it.  A smaller chute (not included) can be run from the kitchen to dispose of table scraps.

Please note that all Clivus central composting systems require at least six feet of headroom in front of the unit for periodic maintenance needs, raking, and removal of finished compost.  If you don't have six feet of headroom in your basement or crawlspace, one alternative is a "Bilco" access door with steps leading directly outside.

Vent above roof line Four inch vent stack< br> In-line exhaust fan Kitchen waste chute Waterless toilet fixture Pint flush toilet fixture Clivus® M-1,2,or3 composter

This detail page has additional model M-1, 2, & 3 info

The three residential sized Clivus Multrum systems are the model M-3 kit with an 84 inch height and a length of 100 inches, this composter can handle up to 50 uses daily.   The Clivus model M-2 kit has a 66 inch overall height and a length of 65 inches.   The Clivus model M-1 kit is 10 inches shorter and holds fifty gallons less compost than the otherwise identical M-2.   All three residential models are 33 inches wide for ease of installation (you can get them through a doorway).   These composters are made of very durable, one-piece, seamless construction and come complete with a waterless toilet and chute, 55 gallon liquid storage base (cradle), automatic moistening system, automatic liquid removal system, interior ventilation fan, maintenance tool, Multrum bacteria, cleaner and installation hardware.   Please give us a call at 1-800-563-9720 for a free consultation with an experienced technician.

Clivus composting toilets come in a full range of shapes and sizes to meet your needs.   The M-10, pictured below, is the smallest of the nine commercial sized Clivus composters.   Highly recommended for full-time residential and small commercial installations, this system is shipped unassembled to allow passage through the rough opening of a 36 inch door jam.   The Clivus M-10 was tested and certified by the NSF at 22,500 uses per year and has a large (30 inches wide by 48 inches deep) "top working area" for easy installation of the 14 inch diameter waterless toilet chutes.

Left click here for model M-10 & M-12 info

There are a total of thirteen Clivus Multrum composting toilet systems.  The three residential kits (M-1, M-2, and M-3), the two unibody commercial sized units (M-32 and M-35), and seven commercial sized units which ship unassembled: the three Ten series units M-10, M-12, M-15, and M-18) and the three Twenty series models (M-22, M-25, and M-28).  The Ten series are typically mounted on a sloped, wooden "cradle" while the Twenty series rest upon a molded two-piece liquid storage base.  The M-18 and M-28 models have the same body as an M-12, but a 2 foot midsection extension increases the capacity by 50%.  The Clivus M54ADA Trailhead rounds out their line with a self-contained, restroom building/composter.  Left click here for the M54ADA detail page.

Inspection and service visits (Colorado only) are:
$495 dollars*

compost pile analysis and written report of system inspection findings

maintenance schedule advice and an informational poster for the unit

instructional posters with acrylic covers for your restroom stalls

2000 "full-size" adult composting worms (yes, the size & type matters!)

two pounds of our specially formulated, concentrated compost accelerant

two bales of the recommended bulking material: pine planer shavings

installation of any accessory systems you may wish to order from us:

Moistening systems ensure a healthy, active compost by keeping the surface of the pile wet, thereby preventing the interior from drying out.  Filtered, misting spray heads and a digital timer are standard features.

• AC or DC non-pressurized, a pump & a 110 gallon tank $455 dollars


• Pressurized (hose bib), no pump & tank  ($195 dollars postpaid)

Effluent systems were often overlooked on many older composters.  Typically, a gravity drain cage is installed in the base with a bulkhead fitting that allows effluent to drain out to the leach field ($70 dollars postpaid).  If the field is uphill from the unit, you'll also need an effluent removal system ($265 dollars for a 110 volt AC system postpaid).

Ventilation systems may need fan updating or vent repairs to ensure odor-free operation.  Composting toilets should not leave an offensive odor in the building.  If they do, then something is wrong. Typically, the problem is either a weak fan or unwrapped vent pipe joints.  Our AC, in-line, 6" duct fan kit is $225 dollars (postpaid).

AB