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Welcome to our website! click for Home Page or click for Site Map
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The wastewater your home produces is referred to as effluent and consists of blackwater (toilet waste) and greywater (kitchen, shower, sink, and laundry waste).
Effluent flows directly from your house into a "watertight", underground, two compartment (chamber) septic tank.
Solid waste settles into a sludge layer on the bottom and fats float to the top of the first compartment.
Between these two scum layers is a zone of clarified liquid effluent which is internally piped to the second compartment of the septic tank for additional settling.
As incoming sewage from the house fills the first compartment, clarified liquids are forced to leave the second chamber of the septic tank and flow out to the leach field or leach pit.
The typical leach field is a series of shallow rock filled trenches where effluent is "purified" as it slowly percolates through the soil.
A leach pit is a deeper, larger hole filled with rock for disposing of wastewater.
In most of the country, local regulatory officials allow "homeowner-builders" to submit a site plan and pull their own installation permits.
Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!
We're here to help you every step of the way with your sewage tank design needs and do our best to ensure you don't make that one mistake that ruins the entire system.
Even professionals with 30 years in the business seem to get too tied up in 'how they've always done it' to realize there are better ways to approach the question.
Good consultation is priceless - ours is free with purchase of a system.
Depending upon local building regulations, you may or may not need to hire a state licensed professional engineer to design your septic system, but you never know until you ask your building department.
What follows is a very general guide to Individual Sewage Disposal System ("ISDS") guidelines (code).
What is code in my area? is a uniquely local question and often changes yearly.
Septic system rules and leach field sizing equations vary wildly from one town to the next, so you need to check and see what is required on your property.
We would have no idea until we see a copy of the latest ISDS regulations for your area.
Septic Filter Basins Drywell Leach Pit Kit Plastic Septic Tanks Infiltrator Chambers Septic Design hints and tips
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personal consultation with septic filter kit is $595* We can consult on your septic system project for $595, but we do not ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chambers much past a 100 mile Denver radius. Save money buying those large bulky items locally and avoid the high cost of motor freight shipment. Any plumbing supply store worth its salt sells septic tanks and chambers or can refer you to a supplier. We are not the manufacturer to give retailer, installer or engineer referrals, but you can visit their website at InfiltratorSystems.com
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consultation with filter basin kit & director valve $1095*
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Colorado Only, consultation with 1250 gallon septic tank kit $2595*
Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!
We're here to help every step of the way with your sewage tank design needs.
Polyethylene is the lightweight answer to just about everything these days, including septic tanks.
Our poly tanks are UPC listed for permit approval ease, they'll will never rust or crack and are easily moved around by two people (saving money on heavy equipment).
These septic tanks are deeply ribbed for the extra support needed to be buried up to three feet underground.
We'll consult with you on septic system design and then freight you a custom assembled tank "kit" from Denver.
Final cost is typically +/- $2595 for the 1250 gallon tank kit and +/- $2950 for the 1500 gallon kit within up to about 100 mile radius of Denver.
We're here to help every step of the way, doing our best to ensure you don't make that one critical mistake, like not using risers or not venting your leach field properly.
Click here or on the picture below for specifications on our heavy-duty professional-preferred septic tanks.
We do not ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chamber systems outside of Colorado.
We are not the manufacturer; Infiltrator distributors can be found online at: InfiltratorSystems.com
If you live outside of Colorado, we can consult on your project see $595 consultation package, but we do not ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chambers much past a 100 mile Denver radius.
Motor freight charges of $500 or more for such a large item always makes it much cheaper to purchase locally.
Any plumbing supply store can sell or refer you to a local tank supplier.
Any local retailer of plastic sewer pipe can get Infiltrator chambers and septic tanks for you.
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1250 gallon two compartment tank kit
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click here or on the picture for our heavy-duty professional-preferred septic tank specification detail page
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A WORD ABOUT PUMPING SEPTIC TANKS
Check both compartments yearly and pump when enough solids accumulate in first compartment to spill over into second compartment - usually about sixteen inches, but consult manufacturer of tank
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Colorado Only, Infiltrator® chamber leach field systems from $1900*
The septic system's leach field is seldom given the attention it so richly deserves.
Most people don't understand that perforated pipe in a gravel bed is NOT the best choice for a long-lasting, durable septic system.
Infiltrator® chamber leach field systems are far superior in every aspect: root infiltration protection, optimal percolation, long term viability, resistance to traffic, retention capability for heavy load days, and more.
You don't need to hire an engineer to design your septic system in most areas.
Your local regulatory officials will likely allow you to submit a site plan and pull your installation permits as the "homeowner-builder".
Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!
In general, budget around $1900 for two bedroom home leach field, $2400 for a three bedroom, and around $2900 for a complete 4 bedroom Infiltrator chamber leach field kit.
Total package price depends upon leach field layout (bed versus trench) and number of Infiltrator chambers required, which is not known until you get a soil test and a copy of the local Individual Sewage Disposal System ("ISDS") regulations.
Local building code supplies the equation used to calculate leach field size: number of bedrooms X percolation rate of the soil.
Installation is relatively straight-forward, but even seasoned professionals can get too mired in 'how they've always done it' to realize there are better ways to approach any project.
We're here to help every step of the way, doing our best to ensure you don't make that one critical mistake, like not venting your leach field properly.
We do not quote septic tank or Infiltrator chamber systems outside of Colorado and we are not the manufacturer to give referrals to your local distributor.
The manufacturer, Infiltrator Systems, and a list of their distributors can be found online at: InfiltratorSystems.com
If you live outside of Colorado, we can consult on your project (see $595 consultation package above) but we do not ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chambers much past a 100 mile Denver radius.
Motor freight charges of $500 or more for such a large item always makes it much cheaper to purchase locally.
Any plumbing supply store can sell or refer you to a local tank supplier.
Any local retailer of plastic sewer pipe can get Infiltrator chambers and septic tanks for you.
Click here or on pictures for Infiltrator installation detail page.
click here or on picture for Infiltrator chamber leach field installation details
á la carte septic system parts without consultation
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The kits offered above come complete with on-going flat fee consultation to help with your septic system design, installation, and operation. Should you not need our consultation services, just the parts, we offer the components individually. We are happy to assist with any questions or concerns about the individual part you purchase, but please note that system design consultation is not included when ordering only the settling tank, diverter valve, fitting or filter kits á la carte. |
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Septic Basin Settling Tank Kit (no filter) is $400*
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12 inch Riser Extension for Settling Tank is $95*
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Tank shown with filter for illustration only | Nothing beats a nice tank. While larger settling tanks are possible - we do not ship them. Part of the "trick" with tank sizing is that the second or third compartment (in-line settling tank) does not need to be large, if the septic tank itself is sized properly. This $400 (inludes shipping) durable, buried vault is just the right size for your normal family and has long been a standard part every system we sell. Solid debris (lint, hair, and dirt) settles to the bottom and grease (fats) float to the top. A priceless tip is to avoid "natural" or otherwise bar soaps, which are often 99% refined chicken fat - liquid soaps are advised (avoid bleach and borax for better septic tank health). Passive (non-electric no moving parts) - as septic efluent flows in, clarified effluent flows out to preserve your leach field by preventing bio-mat formation. Septic filter/settling basin kit is 26" diameter by 42" tall and includes: tank with lid, SDR35 rubber grommets for 4 inch inlet and outlet pipes (inlet hole not shown in picture), neoprene lid gasket, and tamper resistant lid fasteners to keep children out of tank. Filter with housing and handle kit is sold separate above for $69. |
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Septic tank or settling basin fitting & filter kit $150*
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Septic leach fields fail when poor septic tank design allows drain lines (laterals) to clog with sediment "biomat forming". Greatly increase the life expectancy any sewage disposal system with a filter to prevent solids greater than 1/16th of an inch from entering and eventually clogging your leach field. Our fitting and filter kit can can convert nearly any water tank (barrel, vault, septic, or cistern) into a functional filter basin. Sieve filters extend beneath the scum layer (fats floating on top of tank water), siphoning relatively clear effluent from the middle. External-to-internal flow and sealed, gas-baffled end cap design prevents gas-borne solids (tiny particles) from floating atop gas bubbles and exiting. You will never need to replace this septic filter - just hose it off once a year, or less if everything seems constant the first time you check tank health. In normal usage, the filter schluffs debris, operating as nearly "self-cleaning" as possible. Septic tank fitting & filter kit (all 4" diameter sewer/drain SDR35) includes: a threaded cleanout, inlet & outlet beveled pipes, rubber seal grommets, hole saw kit, inlet tee, outlet tee housing, three spare couplers, and a sieve filter with handle extension kit (fits 4" SCH40 and SDR35 pipe). Please note the filter housing is ABS plastic, so use a multi-plastic cement when attaching to PVC outlet pipe. Always prime all pipe joints first, before cementing/gluing. | 
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Don't need the tank fittings (inlet, cleanout, grommets, hole saw and couplers)?
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Filter housing is black ABS plastic. Use multi-plastic cement when attaching to white/grey/green PVC.
Always prime all pipe joints first, before "solvent welding" with cement.
click here or on pictures for the settling basin and septic filter detail page
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Director Valves split 50/50 or all to one side are $75*
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One of the keys to a quality gravity distribution system is the injection molded PVC flow director. Even distribution is VERY important, so don't trust old-fashioned distribution boxes (D Boxes) which are notoriously unreliable. Even a minor amount of settling will drastically affect a D box's even distribution. One of the most common mistakes with septic systems is relying upon simple Tees or Double Ells to properly distribute your effluent. Eventual settling & leveling errors as little as 1/8 of inch result in enormous differences in effluent distribution with Tees and Ells (maniflods) and D boxes. The "trick" to septic leach field longevity is good soil health. Designing a system that allows you to switch (every few months) from one leach field to another allows one field to dry out between watering cycles and regain its health by opening soil pores to air. Leaving a leach field sodden constantly creates a septic 'bio-mat' in the lateral line trench that eventually causes a system to stop percolating and fail. This director/diverter valve (flow director) allows you to split septic effluent exactly 50/50 or divert all to one side or the other. Laboratory tests have shown that even at a 1/8 inch tilt, these Flow Director Valves still deliver relatively equal 50/50 flow (+/- 1.3%). New stepped hub design (not shown) allows use of either Sch40 or SDR35 four inch PVC pipe. Material is injection molded PVC plastic and while not rated Sch40 or SDR35 since it is not a pressure fitting, the thickness is nearly that of Sch40. Director valve kit ships complete with threaded access cap, coupler for riser pipe, and flow adjustment handle. Please note that there is a 2-1/4 inch elevational drop between inlet pipe and outlet pipes on this director valve, so these may not work for a remodel where limited slope is available. Your effluent lines need to drop at least 1/8 inch per foot between tank and leach field.
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Drywell leaching pit kits are $169* delivered
Our drywell leaching pit kits are excellent for new septic systems, adding on to one that is too small, or repairing a failed pipe-in-gravel leach field.
If you have a failing leach field, there truly is nothing permanent you can do to repair it unless you add additional leach line or drywell pits.
Please dont believe those ads for "all natural, biodegradable, miracle cures" - at best you buy a couple of months, at worst you pollute the groundwater and kill local soil organisms with such additives.
Septic waste digesters are generally too little, too late and schemes to punch holes in your yard to cure the problem are just that - schemes to take your money.
If you want to "revitalize" your leach field health in a more natural way, use industrial strength hydrogen peroxide.
Home use hydrogen peroxide is around 3% strength with pool chemical supply stores selling barrels of 30% strength up to 50%, or more.
Highest strength hydrogen peroxide is preferred for cleaning leach fields and the price difference is typically minimal ($6 to $8 per gallon).
Note that 35% strength and above is considered a hazardous material (HazMat) by HomeLand security.
So be sure to post a placard in your front and rear window when transporting above 30% strength; or better yet, have the store deliver for you.
And keep in mind that a 55 gallon drum is going to weigh about 450 pounds, so plan ahead for delivery ... at least you can roll a barrel.
You always hire a professional to flush the lines FIRST (power jetting) prior to adding hydrogen peroxide.
They locate cleanout in front of leach field and thread hose down through perforated field pipe, flushing the accumulated bio-mat OUT of the leach field.
Lacking the proper power jetting head for four inch pipe, you can do a passable job with a Fire Hose equipped with disruptor (shower) head.
The strainer fitting used for end of hose when pulling water out (like a well) is commonly used to create spray around the full circle inside pipe.
If you get stuck trying to do the job with a spigot and garden hose, always increase the water pressure with an in-line booster pump.
Lack of venting at the ends (at least) of each leach field lateral line (finger) is the most common cause of leach field failure - no fresh air in the pipes.
Drywells are most highly recommended for the end of each lateral line, with two drywells in series the optimal long-term answer.
This allows the first drywell to act as a settling catchment, ensuring long-term viability on a failed/failing system by keeping the perforated pipes lines dry most of the time.
If you are not professionally pumping and removing the material flushed from septic field fingers (only sensible approach), you end up having to dig to a large hole at end of each lateral line to receive all the flushed bio-mat.
Should the ends of fingers not be vented, you have to find them first.
Without a detailed survey of leach field location, you must use a metal spike/probe to find the end of each line.
Luckily, the ground tends to be softer over the top of your leach field lateral lines.
Do not use this hole for your drywell location ... the soil will be saturated with bio-mat and is best left well-alone, marked and buried under at least three feet of native soil.
Once lines have been flushed, temporarily cap/plug the pipe ends and then pour a 55 gallon drum of hydrogen peroxide into cleanout, so it fills the lateral lines.
Put the lines under pressure for a few minutes, if possible.
Keep the ends plugged until the hydrogen peroxide has done its job (give it a few hours, if not overnight) and then flush the leach field lines with clear water again for best effect.
The same thing it does on a cut, peroxide will do in the leach field lines: loosen up the bio-mat (scab) and restore healthy aerobic (oxygen rich) bacterial culture.
Careful now, this is a nasty job and best left to professionals since the biomat sludge is highly contaminated with bacteria galore.
If your local code allows, just let the bio-mat drop down into a pit off end of lateral line and cover with soil (and maybe a little lime) later.
Trying to catch it in some type of barrel or basket is a nasty mess just waiting to happen.
Wear disposable protective clothes, head/skin/face coverings, gloves, and goggles ... and pay attention.
Due to motor freight costs, we do not retail industrial strength hydrogen peroxide, but it is readily available from your local pool cleaning or chemical supply store.
As with most fixes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Since hydrogen peroxide is relatively cheap, simply pouring a five or fifteen gallon bucket into the lateral line vents every five years, or so, is good maintenance in a well-ventilated leach field.
Once a leach field fails (stops percolating), it becomes necessary to flush the accumulated bio-mat out of lateral lines with high pressure water and then add hydrogen peroxide to loosen and aerate soil.
"How to fix a leach field" is more involved than just flushing the lateral lines, though.
You have to examine why it failed in the first place.
The most common reasons for leach field failure are: trying to use a single compartment septic tank, absence of a particulate filter, under-sized leach field, and lack of ventilation in the leach field.
Oxygen is very important to leach field health and a drywell with surface vent at end of lateral line is an instant fix for that while greatly increasing the capacity and drying out the lateral lines at the same time.
Taking the load off your failing leach field is crucial to any repair.
An excellent long-term fix is to add one (or more) of our drywell kits to the end of each leach field lateral line after flushing the pipes: drywell kits.
These amazingly strong plastic leach pit kits can be buried as deep as you need to dispose of household septic effluent.
Gravel backfill around and under the drywells will increase the capacity of your leaching pit and extend the servicable life expectancy.
A single drywell with a foot of gravel under and around it will dispose of 200+ gallons per day in most soils, but you can not have too large of a leaching pit - the more gravel the better.
As with all of our products, we'll work closely with you, providing toll-free consultation during construction!
Shown below is a sample installation with two drywells in series - bringing sewage in through the lid. Top loading (with vent) ensures maximum surge capacity for the drywell. Please note that venting your leaching pit (or any septic field) is most highly recommended ... lack of venting at both ends of lateral lines is the ultimate cause of leach field failure (after lack of proper two compartment filtered septic tank). Oxygen keeps the drainage pit dry and the soil around it healthier. Freezing is rarely, if ever, a problem with running sewage water underground, but you can always cap the vents in deep winter, if need be. We provide all of the fittings pictured with your kit (san tee, riser, coupler, vent and geotextile fabric). The geotextile fabric is included for installation above the gravel layer. It keeps backfill soil from clogging the gravel and is crucial to extending the life of your leach pit.
click here or on image below for the drywell installation detail page
gravel-less Drywell Kits $169* delivered complete with installation kit
Drywell kit
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3 side panels
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bottom panel
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surface drain
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We keep drywell parts in stock for immediate shipment the next business day
Questions? Email natural@colorado.net or call us at 800-563-9720
- sorry, no shipping to APO/FPO, HI, AK, PR, Mexico or Canada -
click here or on images above for the drywell installation detail page
Battery Operated Moisture Sensor Flood Alarm
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Flood alarm moisture sensors are an integral part of many sustainable design systems. Sump pumps, cisterns, septic tanks, greasetraps, and greywater filters alike can all benefit from this early warning overfill alarm. Washing machines, water heaters, pressure tanks and other household plumbing will leak, eventually. This flood alarm will let you know there's a problem with a piercing 110dB wail long before your couch starts to float away. This flood alarm's solid state circuitry is built into a 3 inch wide, 4.25 inch tall, and 1.5 inch deep sensor compartment. A single 9 volt battery powers the alarm and a battery saver feature keeps batteries fresh longer. Don't take chances with water damage. Protect yourself with a flood alarm.
$20* FREE First Class / Priority US Mail
click here or on image for flood alarm detail page |
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Septic system design hints, tips and repair tricks
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Septic tank sizing is determined by usage. The object with septic tank sewage treatment is to retain the effluent in the septic tank for at least 30 hours. This allows time for solids to settle on the bottom and grease to float to the top. As a general rule of thumb, a 2 bedroom home will require a 1000 gallon septic tank; 3 bedroom 1250 gallon septic tank; and 4 bedroom 1500 gallon septic tank. All of these are minimum requirements - to some extent, the bigger the better. A longer retention time allows the solid waste to decompose more completely. Some building departments require at least a 1250 gallon septic tank for any size home. |
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The image at right is a page straight out of our county ISDS manual
Slower percolation rates and/or poorly draining soil (more clay) require larger leach fields. There are two ways to calculate the minimum absorption area (leach field). Typically, you dig an eight foot inspection hole in the area of the intended leach field and your local building department physically examines the soil to determine its Long Term Acceptance Rate ("LTAR"). In some areas of the country, a local soil testing firm must be hired to perform a percolation test to "clock" the speed of your soil's capacity to absorb liquids.
The typical flow rate ("Q") is 75 gallons per person per day with an extra 50% often added by some counties (see right):
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» Stamped, engineered, septic system plans are typically not necessary unless your property's percolation test was "extreme" (greater than 60 minutes per inch or less than 5 minutes per inch); or the site has seasonal groundwater; or there is bedrock or unsuitable soil less than four feet below the proposed leach field; or if the ground slope is in excess of 30% in the area of the proposed leach field.
"Engineered systems" require a local engineer to approve ("stamp") your site's septic tank and leach field plans. Anyone can draw up their own septic system plan ("design"), but legal liability lies with the approving regulatory officials when you are "pulling a permit" unless they require ("code") an engineer's approval." Local engineers are familiar with local codes which vary from town to town, year to year, and sometimes, inspector to inspector.
When the soil percolation rate of your site is "extreme", the local regulatory officials ("health department") defers to a licensed and insured local engineer to "stamp" the plans as being "safe" for the client, his/her neighbors, and the environment."
This releases the local government from future legal liability for your "extreme" septic system's failure.
Please note that we are not an engineering firm - we do not supply stamped, engineered plans.
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A word about using bleach and harsh soaps with a septic system
What is the best germ and bacteria killing substance in your house? Bleach - it kills bacteria
What thrives in a healthy septic tank to optimally process toilet waste? Bacteria - they eat poop
What happens when your leach field fails from bio-mat (liquid poop)? You are poop out of luck
Please note two critical design errors in the system sketch shown above. Never install bends before the septic tank (they clog) and always install a cleanout, just in case the line does clog. From the outlet side of septic tank, effluent flows downhill 1/8 inch minimum drop per foot to the leach field (or alternative disposal method). 
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Every septic system (except the cesspool) has two distinct components: septic tank (to catch grease & solids) and treatment area (to dispose of liquid effluent). Cesspools allow direct discharge of sewage (solids and liquid) into a pit, pond or perforated tank. Effluent evaporates up and leaches down into surrounding soil; an outhouse privy toilet is a classic cesspool.
Septic tanks use one of seven treatment area designs to dispose of effluent:
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how to fix a failed pipe-in-gravel leach field
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Leach fields eventually fail due to formation of "bio-mat" in the soil underneath lateral lines and/or percolation chambers.
Solids, grease, and smaller particulates allowed to leave the septic tank, build-up as a bio-mat of viscous slime over the years, clogging soil pores and rendering the leach field inoperable for percolation.
Septic tank effluent (sewage water) simply can not penetrate the layer and your leach field fails.
Regardless of the septic system design, the leach field eventually fails ... it is just a matter of time, but a well designed system should last thirty years or more and be easily flushed see detailed flushing notes above.
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PLEASE DON'T USE SEPTIC TANK ADDITIVES
Septic system additives are truly a waste of money and nearly all are harmful to the environment.
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Left click underlined words and most pictures for link to
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Please E-mail us anytime
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