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Septic tanks & Infiltrator chambers sold only in Colorado
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COLORADO ONLY - 300, 500, 750, 1000, 1250 and 1500 gallon
two compartment plastic septic tank kits with system design consultation

Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own plastic septic tank for your home sewage system.   We're here to help every step of the way with your sewage tank design needs ... but we only ship septic tanks to locations in Colorado (mainly the Front Range).   Polyethylene is the lightweight answer to just about everything these days, including septic tanks.   Our poly tanks are UPC listed for permit approval ease, they'll will never rust or crack and are easily moved around by two people (saving money on heavy equipment).   These septic tanks are deeply ribbed for the extra support needed to be buried up to three feet underground.   We'll consult with you on septic system design and then freight you a custom assembled tank "kit" from Denver.   Final cost is typically +/- $2395 for the 1250 gallon septic tank kits and +/- $2750 for the 1500 gallon septic tank kits within 50-100 mile radius of Denver.   We're here to help every step of the way, doing our best to ensure you don't make that one critical mistake, like not using risers or not venting your leach field properly.

We do not ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chamber systems outside of Colorado.   We are not the manufacturer; Infiltrator distributors can be found online at: www.infiltratorsystems.com.   If you live outside of Colorado, we can consult on your project see $450 consultation package, but we do not ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chambers much past a 100 mile Denver radius.   Motor freight charges of $500 or more for such a large item always makes it much cheaper to purchase locally.   Any plumbing supply store can sell or refer you to a local tank supplier.   Any local retailer of plastic sewer pipe can get Infiltrator chambers and septic tanks for you.

Polyethylene is the lightweight answer to just about everything these days, including septic tanks.   Our 1250 gallon and 1500 gallon plastic septic tanks are UPC listed for permit approval ease, they'll will never rust or crack, and are easily moved around by two people (saving money on heavy equipment).   These septic tanks are deeply ribbed for the extra support needed to be buried up to three feet underground.   To a great extent, 1250 gallon and 1500 gallon plastic septic tanks are preferable to concrete - plastic does not crack.   If you intend to purchase concrete, shop carefully.   Square corner concrete tanks are weaker than rounded corner (hockey rink shape) concrete septic tanks.

1250 gallon and 1500 gallon two compartment plastic septic tank specifications and details

Septic tank size depends entirely upon local building code requirement, which is spelled out in the Individual Sewage Disposal System (ISDS) regulations for your area ("code").   Get yourself a copy of the ISDS at the building department and study it well.   Every county in every state seems to have its own unique regulations, equations and definitions.   Local code sometimes changes yearly and always is open for interpretation.   The larger the septic tank, the slower and more thoroughly it processes the solid waste.   Therefore, a 1250 gallon two compartment septic tank is generally considered a minimum size requirement (1, 2 or 3 bedroom).   While 1000 gallon and less is available, any cost savings is quickly lost from increased pumping frequency and greater chance of leach field contamination from undigested solids.   Add 250 gallons per bedroom: 1500 gallon for four bedrooms, if not 2000 gallon, which is code in some areas.

There are many things to keep in mind with a septic tank installation.   First, any residential septic tank should be at least 1000 gallons and have two compartments - always.   The divider ("baffle") in a two compartment septic tank works to keep solids in the first compartment and out of the second and/or your leach field.   The wastewater your home produces is referred to as effluent and consists of blackwater (toilet waste) and greywater (kitchen, shower, sink, and laundry waste).   Effluent flows directly from your house into a "watertight", underground, two compartment septic tank where solid waste settles into a sludge layer on the bottom and fats float to the top.   Between these two scum layers is a zone of clarified liquid effluent that is internally piped to the second compartment of the septic tank for additional settling.   As effluent fills the first compartment, clarified liquids are forced to leave the second compartment of the sewage tank and flow out to the leach field.   Without this two compartment design, solids might be able to leave the tank and enter your leach field, eventually clogging the soil pores and resulting in leach field failure someday.

1060, 1250 and 1500 gallon gallon two compartment plastic septic tank

click here for a guide to septic tank installation in normal soils 4MB .pdf
click here for tank installation in clay soil and/or high groundwater 4MB .pdf
click here to view Infiltrator® chamber system installation manual 142KB .pdf
click here or on picture below for our website's Infiltrator® leach field detail page
click here for our main septic system design chapter with complete products & pricing

Another very important design consideration is having manhole risers above both compartments of the septic tank.   When the time comes to have the tank pumped or spray off the filter, you need to have a riser above the opening.   Otherwise, when you remove the lid, dirt and gravel will fall down into the tank.   Manhole risers on a septic tank make life a lot easier.   You really do not need, or want, to run your risers all the way to the surface - a foot or more of soil cover will allow grass to grow and provide insulation.   And don't forget the threaded cleanout - the closer to house, the better (five feet should be considered a maximum distance).   Another key design consideration shown here is keeping the septic tank no more than ten feet away from the foundation.   You do not want to give grease and fats time to congeal in the line.   Placing the septic tank farther than ten feet away from the house is often a critical error as is not venting your system as much as possible.   Cleanout and diverter valve risers (along with leach field vents) should be terminated at least eight inches above grade, capped, and sides drilled with 1/16 to 1/8 inch holes.   These holes drilled in sides of pipe extending above ground provide much need ventilation for tank and leach field alike.

1060, 1250 and 1500 gallon two compartment plastic septic tank

Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system!   Plastic tanks have many advantages over concrete: consistent quality, specific styles for unique locations, portability without a crane, and durability in wet locations.   Fiberglass should never be considered due to its tendency to eventually dry out and become relatively fragile.   One crack and it will not hold water - time to replace - that's why we almost always specify plastic tanks.   In some parts of the country, local code requires a concrete septic tank ("vault") for its assumption of strength and durability.   Be VERY careful with concrete septic vaults as there is a huge difference in quality from one manufacturer to the next and sometimes from one batch of concrete to the next.   In general, be advised NOT to purchase a rectangular concrete septic tank (square corners).   Vaults cast with rounded ends (hockey rink shaped) are MUCH stronger and they should apply several overlapping coats of waterproofing to inside and outside for longevity.   Concrete exposed to constant moisture (high groundwater), salts and chemicals (water softener back-flush, bleach, draino, etc) will eventually errode, start leaking, and need replaced.   This is why venting a septic system properly is so important - caustic gases accumulating in a septic tank will erode concrete over the years.

Every septic system (except the cesspool) has two distinct components: septic tank (to catch grease & solids) and treatment area (to dispose of liquid effluent). Cesspools allow direct discharge of sewage (solids and liquid) into a pit, pond or perforated tank. Effluent evaporates up and leaches down into surrounding soil; an outhouse privy toilet is a classic cesspool.

Septic tanks use one of seven treatment area designs to dispose of effluent:

  • Leach Fields are trenches (or rectangular beds) dug in yard and filled with a foot of 3/4" - 1-1/2" gravel and a four inch diameter perforated pipe. The pipe-in-gravel leach line is covered with geotextile fabric (landscaping weed barrier) and then backfilled with a foot or two of native soil. Gravity sends effluent to leach field (1/8 inch per foot drop minimum) and dispersed into soil evenly (leach field pipe is level).
  • Pressurized Systems make use of an electric pump to force effluent into trenches, beds or chambers. Even distribution of effluent is key to smaller leach field sizing and better treatment of the waste water. Poor soil percolation sites often require pressure distribution sand mounds with two inch diameter pipe drilled with 1/4 inch holes every two feet, or so. Drip systems utilize small nozzles for even more uniform distribution of waste water.
  • Evapotranspiration / Drip Beds are pressurized systems with smaller holes or nozzles (drip) for even more uniform distribution of waste water. In areas that do not get snow cover in the winter, long shallow trenches can be run through yard, sending waste water into the root zone near surface. The plants transpire water through growth, some water evaporates being so close to surface, and a smaller portion percolates down into water table.
  • Chamber Systems are a tried and true advancement in leach field design - arched panels in the trench. Effluent flows into this large open area underneath the yard; the entire bottom of a chamber is open. With no gravel inside, chambers have ample air to help keep the leach field soil aerobic and healthy.
  • Drywells are plastic or concrete perforated tanks for discharging effluent into large, fabric covered, gravel-filled holes: Leach Pits. Drywells are a passive (no pump) solution for small/odd lots where a long leach field is not possible or desired. Pits take advantage of surface area around sides to dispose of large amounts of water in the right soil. Always allow at least six feet of space between pits to ensure maximum percolation and treatment.
  • Lagoons are man-made ponds where the effluent percolates and evaporates, often assisted by a fountain or bubbler. Normally reserved for high clay soil areas where percolation is difficult, lagoons can be lined to prevent percolation in a fragile area - evaporation being the only means of disposal. Six foot fencing and a locked gate is standard practice with a lagoon - legal liability is an issue.
  • Constructed Wetlands are shallow lagoons, mainly designed in hot climates. Active plant growth year-round is desired as the constructed wetland plants help dissipate the nitrogen and truly treat the liquid. Constructed wetlands show the most promise for a carefree low-maintenance treatment area, but you do need to be in a non-freezing climate. They are an excellent choice for greywater disposal, taking a major load off the septic tank and leach field system (blackwater only - toilets and dishwasher).
  • Infiltrator chamber sytem and conventional pipe in gravel leach fields

    click here or on either picture for our website's Infiltrator® detail page
    click here to view the Infiltrator chamber system installation manual 142KB .pdf
    click here for our main septic system design chapter with complete products & pricing

    Left click here for do-it-yourself chamber leach field sewage disposal systems.

    A WORD ABOUT PUMPING SEPTIC TANKS

    Check both compartments yearly and pump when enough solids accumulate in first compartment to spill over into second compartment - usually about sixteen inches, but consult manufacturer of tank
    Wrap a piece of white towel around the end of a long pole to check solids level in bottom of your septic tank.   A healthy, properly sized septic tank might never need pumped, but not pumping when needed will result in grease and solids getting out to the leach field.   Particulates, grease and solids create 'biomat' in the leach field percolation area, eventually causing it to fail and need replacement.   Every three to five years is the normal cycle for pumping a septic tank (less often in warmer areas and/or lower usages).   FYI - if you live in an extremely cold climate, never have your tank pumped in the fall or winter.   Septic tank water only avoids freezing through biological/bacterial activity (fecal matter decomposing).
    Refill your septic tank with water immediately after having it pumped
    Without water on the inside, an empty tank is under extreme stress resisting the weight of soil around it, especially when that soil is wet and you are parked near it.   Cracked septic tanks leak and have to be replaced.
    Install an effluent septic filter and spray it off yearly, during the inspection
    Sieve filters keep larger particles from getting out to your leach field, clogging the soil pores and causing it to fail.


    Flow directors for use in septic system leach fields

    One of the keys to a quality gravity distribution system is the flow director. Even distribution is VERY important to soil health in a septic system, so don't trust old-fashioned distribution boxes ("D Boxes") which are notoriously unreliable. Even a minor amount of settling will drastically affect a D box's even distribution. One of the most common mistakes with leach fields is relying upon simple Tees or Double Ells to properly distribute your effluent. Be aware of the fact that tilts as little as 1/8 of inch will result in enormous differences in effluent distribution with Tees and Ells.

    Laboratory tests have shown that even at a 1/8 inch tilt, these flow directors deliver relatively equal flows (+/- < 1.3%). They are constructed of high quality PVC and easily install by attaching directly to 4 inch SCH40 pipe. We supply one flow director with each kit, but you can purchase additional units ($79 each) and install them in series to evenly distribute effluent to multiple lines.

    Flow directors for use in septic system leach fields
    Flow directors for use in septic system leach fields

    This unique design allows monitoring of the effluent from grade, but the most important feature of our flow director is that it can be adjusted to either split the flow evenly between the two outlet lines OR alternate the flow to one side or the other. This allows you to let one half of your leach field go fallow for replanting and/or prevent hydraulic overloading. Unlike the large catalog companies we've experimented, installed, and serviced many system configurations over the years. We have the practical experience necessary to ensure your success.

    Director Valves split 50/50 or all to one side for $75*
    If you do not need any consultation, we offer the director separate
    FREE Shipping in 48 contiguous states - no APO/FPO, HI, AK, PR, or international
    we keep units in stock for quick shipment by the next business day
    complete with threaded access cap, coupler for riser pipe, and flow adjustment handle

    Quantity:

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    click here or on any picture for the main chapter with assorted system pricing


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