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Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own plastic septic tank for your home sewage system.
We're here to help every step of the way with your sewage tank design needs ... but we only ship septic tanks to locations in Colorado (mainly the Front Range).
Polyethylene is the lightweight answer to just about everything these days, including septic tanks.
Our poly tanks are UPC listed for permit approval ease, they'll will never rust or crack and are easily moved around by two people (saving money on heavy equipment).
These septic tanks are deeply ribbed for the extra support needed to be buried up to three feet underground.
We'll consult with you on septic system design and then freight you a custom assembled tank "kit" from Denver.
Final cost is typically +/- $2395 for the 1250 gallon septic tank kits and +/- $2750 for the 1500 gallon septic tank kits within 50-100 mile radius of Denver.
We're here to help every step of the way, doing our best to ensure you don't make that one critical mistake, like not using risers or not venting your leach field properly.
We do not ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chamber systems outside of Colorado.
We are not the manufacturer; Infiltrator distributors can be found online at: www.infiltratorsystems.com.
If you live outside of Colorado, we can consult on your project see $450 consultation package, but we do not ship septic tanks or Infiltrator chambers much past a 100 mile Denver radius.
Motor freight charges of $500 or more for such a large item always makes it much cheaper to purchase locally.
Any plumbing supply store can sell or refer you to a local tank supplier.
Any local retailer of plastic sewer pipe can get Infiltrator chambers and septic tanks for you.
Polyethylene is the lightweight answer to just about everything these days, including septic tanks.
Our 1250 gallon and 1500 gallon plastic septic tanks are UPC listed for permit approval ease, they'll will never rust or crack, and are easily moved around by two people (saving money on heavy equipment).
These septic tanks are deeply ribbed for the extra support needed to be buried up to three feet underground.
To a great extent, 1250 gallon and 1500 gallon plastic septic tanks are preferable to concrete - plastic does not crack.
If you intend to purchase concrete, shop carefully.
Square corner concrete tanks are weaker than rounded corner (hockey rink shape) concrete septic tanks.
Septic tank size depends entirely upon local building code requirement, which is spelled out in the Individual Sewage Disposal System (ISDS) regulations for your area ("code").
Get yourself a copy of the ISDS at the building department and study it well.
Every county in every state seems to have its own unique regulations, equations and definitions.
Local code sometimes changes yearly and always is open for interpretation.
The larger the septic tank, the slower and more thoroughly it processes the solid waste.
Therefore, a 1250 gallon two compartment septic tank is generally considered a minimum size requirement (1, 2 or 3 bedroom).
While 1000 gallon and less is available, any cost savings is quickly lost from increased pumping frequency and greater chance of leach field contamination from undigested solids.
Add 250 gallons per bedroom: 1500 gallon for four bedrooms, if not 2000 gallon, which is code in some areas.
There are many things to keep in mind with a septic tank installation.
First, any residential septic tank should be at least 1000 gallons and have two compartments - always.
The divider ("baffle") in a two compartment septic tank works to keep solids in the first compartment and out of the second and/or your leach field.
The wastewater your home produces is referred to as effluent and consists of blackwater (toilet waste) and greywater (kitchen, shower, sink, and laundry waste).
Effluent flows directly from your house into a "watertight", underground, two compartment septic tank where solid waste settles into a sludge layer on the bottom and fats float to the top.
Between these two scum layers is a zone of clarified liquid effluent that is internally piped to the second compartment of the septic tank for additional settling.
As effluent fills the first compartment, clarified liquids are forced to leave the second compartment of the sewage tank and flow out to the leach field.
Without this two compartment design, solids might be able to leave the tank and enter your leach field, eventually clogging the soil pores and resulting in leach field failure someday.
click here for a guide to septic tank installation in normal soils 4MB .pdf
click here for tank installation in clay soil and/or high groundwater 4MB .pdf
click here to view Infiltrator® chamber system installation manual 142KB .pdf
click here or on picture below for our website's Infiltrator® leach field detail page
click here for our main septic system design chapter with complete products & pricing
Another very important design consideration is having manhole risers above both compartments of the septic tank. When the time comes to have the tank pumped or spray off the filter, you need to have a riser above the opening. Otherwise, when you remove the lid, dirt and gravel will fall down into the tank. Manhole risers on a septic tank make life a lot easier. You really do not need, or want, to run your risers all the way to the surface - a foot or more of soil cover will allow grass to grow and provide insulation. And don't forget the threaded cleanout - the closer to house, the better (five feet should be considered a maximum distance). Another key design consideration shown here is keeping the septic tank no more than ten feet away from the foundation. You do not want to give grease and fats time to congeal in the line. Placing the septic tank farther than ten feet away from the house is often a critical error as is not venting your system as much as possible. Cleanout and diverter valve risers (along with leach field vents) should be terminated at least eight inches above grade, capped, and sides drilled with 1/16 to 1/8 inch holes. These holes drilled in sides of pipe extending above ground provide much need ventilation for tank and leach field alike.
Save money by renting a backhoe and installing your own septic system! Plastic tanks have many advantages over concrete: consistent quality, specific styles for unique locations, portability without a crane, and durability in wet locations. Fiberglass should never be considered due to its tendency to eventually dry out and become relatively fragile. One crack and it will not hold water - time to replace - that's why we almost always specify plastic tanks. In some parts of the country, local code requires a concrete septic tank ("vault") for its assumption of strength and durability. Be VERY careful with concrete septic vaults as there is a huge difference in quality from one manufacturer to the next and sometimes from one batch of concrete to the next. In general, be advised NOT to purchase a rectangular concrete septic tank (square corners). Vaults cast with rounded ends (hockey rink shaped) are MUCH stronger and they should apply several overlapping coats of waterproofing to inside and outside for longevity. Concrete exposed to constant moisture (high groundwater), salts and chemicals (water softener back-flush, bleach, draino, etc) will eventually errode, start leaking, and need replaced. This is why venting a septic system properly is so important - caustic gases accumulating in a septic tank will erode concrete over the years.
Every septic system (except the cesspool) has two distinct components: septic tank (to catch grease & solids) and treatment area (to dispose of liquid effluent).
Cesspools allow direct discharge of sewage (solids and liquid) into a pit, pond or perforated tank.
Effluent evaporates up and leaches down into surrounding soil; an outhouse privy toilet is a classic cesspool.
Septic tanks use one of seven treatment area designs to dispose of effluent:
click here or on either picture for our website's Infiltrator® detail page
click here to view the Infiltrator chamber system installation manual 142KB .pdf
click here for our main septic system design chapter with complete products & pricing
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A WORD ABOUT PUMPING SEPTIC TANKS
Check both compartments yearly and pump when enough solids accumulate in first compartment to spill over into second compartment - usually about sixteen inches, but consult manufacturer of tank
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Director Valves split 50/50 or all to one side for $75*
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click here or on any picture for the main chapter with assorted system pricing
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