This basic plumbing detail works for any size of septic
or greywater settling tank design
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Settling tank plumbing centers around delivery of effluent sub-surface.
The 22.5 degree fittings on the inlet side of this two-compartment tank slow the flow of effluent while dropping it 2 inches.
The sanitary tees at both ends allow the inlet and outlet drains to vent properly and the "gas baffles" function to keep larger particles from floating out to the leach field on gas bubbles.
The only improvement left to be made is an effluent filter in the outlet pipe.
Please note that larger settling (septic) tanks are not recommended for greywater recycling because the longer retention time depletes oxygen and nutrients.
It is best to send greywater out to the leach field while it is still "fresh".
Storing graywater will only cause it to go septic.
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Every septic system (except the cesspool) has two distinct components: septic tank (to catch grease & solids) and treatment area (to dispose of liquid effluent).
Cesspools allow direct discharge of sewage (solids and liquid) into a pit, pond or perforated tank.
Effluent evaporates up and leaches down into surrounding soil; an outhouse privy toilet is a classic cesspool.
Septic tanks use one of seven treatment area designs to dispose of effluent:
Drywells are plastic or concrete perforated tanks for discharging effluent into large, fabric covered, gravel-filled holes: Leach Pits.
Drywells are a passive (no pump) solution for small/odd lots where a long leach field is not possible or desired.
Pits take advantage of surface area around sides to dispose of large amounts of water in the right soil and capability to accept large surges at one time.
The system shown above with four drywells in each leach pit can accept more than 400 gallons of immediate surge.
Always allow at least six feet of space between pits to ensure maximum percolation and treatment.
Leach Fields are trenches (or rectangular beds) dug in yard and filled with a foot of 3/4" - 1-1/2" gravel and a four inch diameter perforated pipe.
The pipe-in-gravel leach line is covered with geotextile fabric (landscaping weed barrier) and then backfilled with a foot or two of native soil.
Gravity sends effluent to leach field (1/8 inch per foot drop minimum) and dispersed into soil evenly (leach field pipe is level).
Chamber Systems are a tried and true advancement in leach field design - arched panels in the trench.
Effluent flows into this large open area underneath the yard; the entire bottom of a chamber is open.
With no gravel inside, chambers have ample air to help keep the leach field soil aerobic and healthy.
Pressurized Systems make use of an electric pump to force effluent into mounds, trenches, beds or chambers.
Even distribution of effluent is key to smaller leach field sizing and better treatment of the waste water.
Poor soil percolation sites often require pressure distribution sand mounds with two inch diameter pipe drilled with 1/4 inch holes every two feet, or so.
Drip systems utilize small nozzles for even more uniform distribution of waste water.
Evapotranspiration / Drip Beds are pressurized systems with smaller holes or nozzles (drip) for even more uniform distribution of waste water.
In areas that do not get snow cover in the winter, long shallow trenches can be run through yard, sending waste water into the root zone near surface.
The plants transpire water through growth, some water evaporates being so close to surface, and a smaller portion percolates down into water table.
Lagoons & cesspools are man-made ponds where the effluent percolates and evaporates, often assisted by a fountain or bubbler.
Normally reserved for high clay soil areas where percolation is difficult, lagoons can be lined to prevent percolation in a fragile area - evaporation being the only means of disposal.
Six foot fencing and a locked gate are standard practice with any lagoon or cesspool due to the legal liability.
Constructed Wetlands are shallow lagoons, mainly designed in hot climates.
Active plant growth year-round is desired as the constructed wetland plants help dissipate the nitrogen and truly treat the liquid.
Constructed wetlands show the most promise for a carefree low-maintenance treatment area, but you do need to be in a non-freezing climate.
They are an excellent choice for greywater disposal, taking a major load off the septic tank and leach field system (blackwater only - toilets and dishwasher).
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A WORD ABOUT PUMPING SEPTIC TANKS
Check both compartments yearly and pump when enough solids accumulate in first compartment to spill over into second compartment - usually about sixteen inches, but consult manufacturer of tank
Wrap a piece of white towel around the end of a long pole to check solids level in bottom of your septic tank.
A healthy, properly sized septic tank might never need pumped, but not pumping when needed will result in grease and solids getting out to the leach field.
Particulates, grease and solids create 'biomat' in the leach field percolation area, eventually causing it to fail and need replacement.
Every three to five years is the normal cycle for pumping a septic tank (less often in warmer areas and/or lower usages).
FYI - if you live in an extremely cold climate, never have your tank pumped in the fall or winter.
Septic tank water only avoids freezing through biological/bacterial activity (fecal matter decomposing).
Refill your septic tank with water immediately after having it pumped
Without water on the inside, an empty tank is under extreme stress resisting the weight of soil around it, especially when that soil is wet and you are parked near it.
Cracked septic tanks leak and have to be replaced.
Install an effluent septic filter and spray it off yearly, during the inspection
Sieve filters keep larger particles from getting out to your leach field, clogging the soil pores and causing it to fail.
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