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Always leave at least one pipe joint at rear of composter unglued to allow moving the unit later without having to cut the pipe.
A straight vertical vent pipe up through peak of roof is always best.
When you are forced to install closer to eave (outside wall examples at right) it is better to run two 45 fittings inside attic and terminate closer to roof peak.
Always insulate exterior vent pipe anyway, but it does make for better venting efficiency to run two 45s inside your attic (or a chimney as per second example), where it is warmer.
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Always insulate the floor underneath - retaining heat inside the unit will help maintain efficiency of the composter.
If you install on a concrete floor, place a layer of foam insulation, or better yet, a 3x6 insulated 2by4 wood platform underneath to act as a thermal break.
Be sure to install the unit on a flat surface or slightly tilted towards the rear (never to the front) - up to 1/4 inch slope/drop.
Start the composting toilet bed with the enclosed peat moss mixture and topsoil.
A note on topsoil - it needs to be insect egg free.
Even if the topsoil is bagged and labeled insect free, we would recommend sealing the dirt in an airtight black plastic garbage bag, moistening the soil well and leaving it out in direct sunlight for a couple of days to bake (turning and shaking to mix).
As you use the composter, add one quarter to half cup of bulking material per bowel movement (enough to cover your feces).
Adding material regularily, so that the fecal matter layers in with the bulking material is key.
It allows the compost to "breathe", trapping air inside the pile.
Place a small wastebasket full of bulking material atop the unit to ensure it is regularly added.
"Good" compost can take at least a couple of weeks to get properly started - give it time to mature.
If the compost is way too moist (pudding), not enough bulking material is being added and oxygen can not penetrate the pile.
The compost may then go septic and have an offensive odor.
If this happens, add a gallon or more of planer shavings to help dry it out and get air back into pile.
Composting stops if the pile is allowed to dry out completely - you then need to add peat moss and warm water.
Compost accelerant "Microbe Mix" should be periodically added to ensure optimal composting.
Be certain to avoid getting accelerant product in your eyes and wash your hands thoroughly afterwards.
You can also add dry bread (not moldy) as the yeast culture also helps accelerate composting action.
The Sun-Mar provided Compost Sure bulking material is a mixture of sphagnum peat moss and hemp stalk.
You can make your own by combining pine planer shavings (sold as horse bedding at ranch supply stores) and sphagnum peat moss.
The typical ratio is 60/40 up to 80/20 pine planer shavings (not sawdust!) to spagnum peat moss.
Many clients use straight pine planer shavings, adding peat moss occasionally when the compost is too dry - peat will allow it to better retain more moisture.
As you switch to nearly full planer shavings, you are adding more bulk at the expense of less composting action.
We tend to prefer keeping the compost light and airy (more shavings) to reduce the possibility of the compost having an offensive septic odor (sodden compost).
You do end up removing finish compost more often, but it is a trade-off.
If the compost is "clumping" then you have added too much peat moss or maybe the planer shavings have a high sawdust content or perhaps you are not covering every bowel movement with bulking material.
Do not use any cedar, redwood or treated wood shavings that would harm the compost health.
If you should ever encounter a situation where the compost turns into "pudding" and develops a septic odor and nothing seems to dry it out, the screen in lower rear of compost drum is likely clogged.
Rotate the composter drum three turns so that it is upside down.
Allow it to sit like this for 24 hours and dry out the screen.
Remove the toilet bowl liner and shine a flashlight into the top rear - you will see the stainless steel screen.
This screen is what allows excess liquid to drain from compost down into the base of unit.
Under extremely poor operational situations, the screen can become caked with compost and get clogged.
After covering your arm with plastic wrap and while wearing gloves, you can reach into the unit and free the dried material on the screen.
An old hair brush with stiff bristles works best.
Force the bristles down through the screen to free the openings.
Let the material in the finishing drawer sit for at least a week and be totally dehydrated before removal and then immediately back-tumble another drawer full.
Keep the tumbler as full as possible for maximum moisture retention and to ensure carefree operation.
It is important to note that you should tumble the composter very well (many times) before back tumbling (quickly) into finishing drawer.
And then you let the material set in the finishing drawer until the next time you have to remove a load.
In that week or two of time, the material in the finishing drawer will completely dehydrate.
Check with local health codes, but finished compost can be added to an exterior compost pile (best), then later tilled into ornamental plantings.
Or simply thrown in the landfill or buried a foot underground.
Take proper health precautions when handling the finished compost (same rules apply to septic tanks) - avoid direct contact.
Tumble the compost no more than three times a week - rotate drum completely two or three full rotations.
Excessive tumbling will actually hinder the composting action by compacting the material and driving out air.
Be sure to leave the compost tumbler bin in the full upright position after tumbling.
Healthy composting toilet material is not an environment favorable to insect life - hot, active compost, being tumbled three times a week.
But, if you have small flies inside your home now, they will eventually find the composter later.
You have to rid the home of insects to ensure the composter can have a chance of being insect free.
Then, discourage insects from returning by spraying the air intake screen, under the seat, around the bowl and at the base.
A heavy rug thrown over the top of seat (cover whole toilet top) is a very effective tool to seal off.
Should you ever get a small fly infestation - kill them, if you want them gone.
A recent client commented that she had been spraying the inside for a month and they were "still leaving" every time she sprayed them.
While it is prudent to avoid spraying the compost itself with harsh insecticides, there must be enough insecticide left clinging to the outside of the barrel and inside of composter body to discourage those wishing to wander back in.
It is important to note that insects are not breeding in the compost itself - they are generally outside the drum, on the inside of the composter body.
Start by removing the toilet bowl and cleaning any material stuck to side of drum, then spray well.
You can try natural pyrethrins or step up to a more powerful aerosal spray and "bomb" the composter for a day or two.
Turn off the fan and wrap/seal all openings with saran wrap after spraying for best results.
After you stop the infestation, spray the air intake areas and under toilet seat with pesticide to discourage future visitors.
We suggest installing surge protectors on any electrical appliance - especially at sites remote from the power station and those running on generator power.
Preventing electrical power surges from reaching electronic devices is key in some areas.
All 120 volt AC composters have an electric fan for constant venting and a thermostat that controls the evaporation mat in base.
Always install the emergency overflow hose to a containment vault/tank or a leach pit / drywell, as per installation plans.
Even if the unit is capable of evaporating all liquid, you should always install an emergency overflow - you never know.
Units ship with one side of the overflow hose plugged - the other side open and ready to hook up.
The liquid in the bottom of the composter will dehydrate and/or go out the back of unit through the overflow hose.
There is no need to try to remove it.
If it is not evaporating, you likely have a skim-coat of oil atop the liquid preventing naturally evaporation.
You can squirt a healthy amount of liquid dish soap/detergent atop the liquid in base to break up the oil coat and get evaporation back on track.
You should also check to make sure the air intake vent grate(s) on bottom front of unit are clean.
Dust and debris can clog the air intakes, preventing cross draft from evaporating liquid properly.
When you remove the finish drawer material and find the base dry, it is a good time to rake out any debris.
Excess liquid amount in the base is another pro/con of using too much planer shavings for bulking material.
While light and fluffy, a heavy planer shavings mixture will allow the urine to pass through more readily.
Venting directions for the Sun-Mar composter follow the same basic rules as any powered vent: a straight vertical pipe up through roof is always best.
When you are forced to make bends, use two 45 degree fittings versus a single 90 degree bend whenever possible.
Terminate the vent pipe above peak of roof for best drafting.
If this requires bending vent with two 45 fittings inside attic, do so rather than have vent pipe exit lower on roof.
Of special importance is to insulate the pipe as it leaves heated room (attic and above roof line) the kit comes complete with a four foot section of foam (additional can be purchased at any home building supply store).
A nice touch is to cut a section of four inch pipe to cover the foam as it leaves the roof for protection against sun damage.
Should you install the vent properly and still experience compost odor in the restroom (poor drafting), a few Sun-Mars are equipped with a "gate" on the blower.
Remove the #2 square drive screws holding the blower on rear of unit and adjust the gate to zero/closed setting.
If the blower does not have a gate, you will notice that the fan terminates about 1/2 inch away from where it exits the back.
This opening is designed to circulate air inside cabinet for accelerating dehydration and can be duct taped closed to enhance venting.
A fuzzy toilet seat cover also helps maintain tight seal around the toilet seat and in a worst case scenario you can install an in-line booster fan.
Keep in mind that properly maintained compost will not have a "septic" odor ... if it does, start with fixing the compost health first.
click here or on any picture for the main composting toilet chapter
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Email or fax 720-293-1705 with name, address, phone and model number for a discounted invoice
We have operated, installed, and serviced a lot of self-contained composters over the last twenty years, but we now only sell Sun-Mar.
Unlike the big catalog companies, we sell no other self-contained composter for a very good reason: we service what we sell, and the Sun-Mar Excel is the most dependable, easiest to maintain, and is the only self-contained composter large enough to conveniently handle full-time residential usage.
Sun-Mar is the only self-contained composting toilet on the market that efficiently handles full-time residential usage.
Our office has had two SunMar Excel composters in continuous usage for well over fifteen years and we have never had a problem.
We know these units inside and out; providing technical assistance before AND after the sale is our specialty.
Just in case you find a lower price from some internet discounter that doesn't know the product and can't supply you with service after the sale, let us try to match their price first.
We'll do our best to match anyone's verifiable written delivered price quote, plus, give you the kind of service after the sale the others don't even pretend to offer!
If you're installing the kit yourself, we supply all the toll-free advice you'll need to get the job done right the first time!
Please note that we feature the Excel, Compact, SpaceSaver, and Mobile self-contained composting toilets, but Sun-Mar central composters are also available from us.
Take this link straight to Sun-Mar's website and then e-mail us at natural@colorado.net for a personal consultation and/or quote on any model of Sun-Mar composter you do not see listed here.
If you would like additional composting toilet product information, we can mail a half hour Sun-Mar DVD video and 24 page Sun-Mar color brochure.
Drop us a note with your mailing address for a free copy: E-mail natural@colorado.net to request Sun-Mar video and brochure.
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